The SOMM Journal

June / July 2017

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{ SOMMjournal.com } 63 Ilegal Joven Mezcal, Oaxaca ($47) With a story tied to a bit of inter-Latin American smuggling and famous mezcal bar Café No Sé in Guatemala, Ilegal Mezcal has been around since 2004. As with many mezcal producers, Ilegal feels that environmental and social sustainability are as important as traditional pro - duction methods. Ilegal Jo ven, made from 100 percent Espadín, renders fresh, crisp green fruits and vegetables speckled with dried green herbs contained in a smooth, rounded tex - ture that managed to reach the recesses of this old heart. Fresh, crisp and spicy turnips, red cabbage and green banana accented with celery salt and dried oregano enveloped in wisps of a sweet, small and very distant fire. BACARDI USA Siembra Metl Mezcal Joven, Pinto Benito Ranch, Michoacán ($55) The only example we have of the very small ancestral mezcal category, Siembra Metl Mezcal—also unlike the rest of this group—comes from Michoacán. More commonly grown in Michoacán is agave Cupreata, the variety from which this single-estate mezcal is made. Siembra Metl Mezcal Joven probably has the most hand-written technical information on any commercial spirit bottle I've ever seen. Fortunately, after having to read a bevy of production detail, your thirst is greatly rewarded. It's as if a lush green meadow adorned with lavender caught fire and was quickly extinguished by a spring rain. Flowery description, lavender and fresh grass aside, there is a definitive pine brush note, along with sandalwood grounded in fresh cucumber (spiced with chili) and sweet corn. The finish is light and clean. SURO INTERNATIONAL IMPORTERS Montelobos Mezcal Joven, Oaxaca ($50) Bold and smoky, but somehow this 100 percent Espadín still reveals cucumber and sweet agave. A bit more masculine in style with a masculine bottle design to match. Artisanal made and organi - cally grown, Montelobos means "mountain of wolves," referencing the difference between wolves (mezcal) and coyotes (tequila). I love tequila, but I also love this analogy. WILLIAM GRANT & SONS Mezcalero Mezcal No. 17, Oaxaca ($96) Ansley Coale of Craft Distillers sources this mezcal from a handful of mom and pop mezcaleros (producers) to sup - port the small-batch approach and these families. (Although the artisanal category is inher- ently small-batch anyway.) Each bottle is made up of at least half wild or semi-wild agave; so although not techni- cally a silvestre, it is close. This wild/semi-wild agave adds to the complexity of mezcal and is evident here. No. 17 is made with the rare Agave de Lumbre and Espadín. This is a softer version of mez - cal exhibiting an almost white chocolate texture, red pepper and sweet and savory elote. 184 cases made. CRAFT DISTILLERS Mezcal Alipús Joven, San Luis del Río, Oaxaca ($50) Similar to the Mezcalero approach and reminisicent of Champagne's Société des Récoltants (SR) category of producers, Mezcal Alipús is made up of a line of smaller producers, each from a different village in Oaxaca. The San Luis version of Mezcal Alipús offers yellow apple, canned pineapple and bold pine and pencil shavings. CRAFT DISTILLERS Pelotón de la Muerte Mezcal Joven Artesanal, Oaxaca ($35) This is a joven artesanal made with agave Espadín made by the Mezcales de Leyenda distillery—one of the few distilleries actu - ally owned by Mexicans. Dusty and smoky Pelotón de la Muerte imparts a sharp pineapple and green banana duo, but the most striking thing about this mezcal is its buoyant texture. MS WALKER Kimo Sabe Mezcal Joven, Albedo ($36) This joven imparts a sweeter agave flavor, like dark chocolate and green mango peppered with pink peppercorns. There's a thicker sweetness in the smoke too—more like barbecue sauce than just barbecue. If a few of these artisanal mezcals offer the deeper soul of a classic rock song, Kimo Sabe is a mezcal pop song with a great hook. KIMO SABE Santo Mezquila, Guadalajara, Jalisco Founders Adam Levine (of Maroon 5) and Sammy Hagar ("The Red Rocker") hired Master Distiller Juan Eduardo Nuñez (El Viejito) to create the world's first "mezquila." If the name hasn't already offered a clue, this tequila/mezcal hybrid is made from half blue Weber agave and half Espadín. Likely a result of the blue agave, this crossbreed walks on the botanical side of Mexico; thyme and basil lead into fresh green apple and cucumber with chili and salt. The finish is a bit short compared to most of these other true mezcals, but if you're looking for a cleaner, greener mez - cal or a just slightly smoky tequila, "she will be loved." WILSON DANIELS Mezcal Alipús Joven, San Luis Similar to the Mezcalero approach and reminisicent of Champagne's Société des Récoltants (SR) category of producers, Mezcal Viejito) to create the world's first "mezquila." If the name hasn't already offered a clue, this tequila/mezcal hybrid is made from half blue Weber agave and half Kimo Sabe Mezcal Joven, This joven imparts a sweeter agave flavor, like dark chocolate and green mango peppered with pink deeper soul of a classic rock song, Kimo Sabe is a mezcal pop song with a KIMO SABE Santo Mezquila, Guadalajara, Founders Adam Levine (of Maroon 5) and Sammy Hagar ("The Red Rocker")

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