Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/833814
62 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } JUNE/JULY 2017 Los Amantes Mezcal Añejo, Oaxaca ($80) Aged for over a year and a half in new French oak barrels and a small percentage of American oak; the barrel toasting is measured. The wood aging is integrated gracefully in this añejo mezcal and the aromas of cedar plank, lightly smoked caramel-lime and sweet agave is ethereal. Despite an opening curtain of black pepper and singed orange peel, the delicate nature of this spirit is apparent. —Meridtih May PALM BAY INTERNTIONAL Bozal Pechuga Sacrificio Mezcal, Guerrero ($99) On limited release, this particular mezcal from Bozal is both a pechuga and silvestre made with wild Papalote and Cupreata agave. In fact, Bozal prides itself on harvesting only wild agave, as they believe it produces a richer mezcal. Most pechugas are made by adding fruits and nuts to the third distillation and hanging a raw chicken breast over the distillation kettle; but in this case, organic cooked chicken marinates with locally sourced fruits, chiles, citrus fruits, raisins, cinnamon and clove. After the chicken has fully marinated, the protein and spices are added into the third and final distillation. The result is a sweet, earthy and incredibly smooth mezcal. 3 BADGE BEVERAGE Sombra Mezcal Joven, Oaxaca ($39) Established in 2006 by Master Sommelier Richard Betts, Sombra is made with high-altitude (up to 8,000 feet in elevation), organic Espadín. Sombra, meaning "shadow" in Spanish, refers to the lower profile that mezcal has experienced com - pared to tequila. Sombra, like many mezcal pro- ducers, is incredibly sup- portive of the Oaxacan people. In addition to using hand-blown glass bottles made from recycled Mexican glass, they've also funded an educational program that has already benefited more than 100 children. This artisanal joven mezcal offers bright, grilled pineapple spiced with cumin. Definitive smoke and citrus here. DAVOS BRANDS Mezcales de Leyenda Mezcal Blanco, Puebla ($85) Made from 100 percent Agave potatorum (aka Cenzio), a variety of agave with broader leaves and offering a slightly different agave flavor that becomes apparent after the mesquite entry blows off. Then comes an alluring pastiche of green banana, pine - apple, almond skin, dried grass and savory olive juice, all anchored by a heavy, creamy weight. Mezcales de Leyenda is unique in that they claim to be the first to produce mezcal using the different types of agave; what they use will depend on the particular Mezcal D.O. They're also big on environmental sustain - ability and socioeconomic responsibility. MS WALKER Gem & Bolt Mezcal with Damiana, Oaxaca ($50) This is one of the most exceptional mezcals in the group, but to be fair, it's not just mezcal: a Mexican herb called damiana is added during the second distillation. Then again, adding herbs is as traditional as the process itself. The result in this case is an aromatic eucalyptus- tinged mezcal chased by grass, yellow flowers, banana and pineapple. In my notes I wrote, "Where is the smoke?" It's there but in a subtle, sexy way—or maybe I'm just saying that because Damiana is sup - posed to increase sexual desire. Definitely geared towards us gringos but still main- tains street cred due to its legit production process and sustainable approach. GEM & BOLT Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal San Pablo Ameyaltper, Puebla ($105) Established since 1995, Del Maguey offers three lines of mezcals: Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal (featured here), Del Maguey and Del Maguey Silvestre Maguey Expressions. Within the single village tier—there are eight villages—Del Maguey also offers a Pechuga and an Ibérico, both with fruit. They also claim to be the first producer to champion single-village mezcal. The San Pablo Ameyaltper Mezcal de Puebla is made with Cupreata (known locally as Papalote) and Agave potatorum, shows tropical fruits, pear, spicy green maile leaf, tropical flowers and sweet tobacco; as if a beautiful cigar-smoking hula dancer pres - ents you with a lei and bowl of fruit. I'm astounded at the nearly smoke-free, clean, vegetal finish. GEMINI SPIRITS { category report } OTHER MEZCALS NOT TO MISS