The SOMM Journal

June / July 2017

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  115 Gloria Ferrer NV Blanc de Noirs, Sonoma County ($22) 88 Gloria Ferrer NV Brut, Sonoma County ($22) 86 Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs, Sonoma County ($22) 88 Gloria Ferrer NV Blanc de Blancs, Sonoma County ($22) 90 Gloria Ferrer NV Brut Rosé, Sonoma County ($27) 88 Gloria Ferrer 2007 Royal Cuvée, Sonoma County ($37) 87 Gloria Ferrer 2005 Carneros Cuvée, Carneros ($75) 88 The Sonoma-based sparkling specialst from Spanish powerhouse Freixenet delivers good val - ues that are surprisingly age-worthy (try cellaring for five or six years). The Carneros Cuvée is lush and complex with burnished fruit FREIXINET USA Flying Goat Cellars 2012 Blanc de Blancs, Sierra Madre Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley ($40) 91 Flying Goat Cellars 2014 Rosé, Solomon Hills Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley ($42) 90 Flying Goat Cellars 2014 Brut Cuvée, Santa Barbara ($42) 89 Fiercely independent Santa Barbara vintner Norm Yost produces excellent Pinots and charming sparkling wines. If goats could fly, they'd also be drinking this well-priced stuff. Frank Family Vineyards 2012 Brut Rosé, Carneros ($55) 92 Former Disney executive Rich Frank has created one of Napa Valley's most respected wineries. His vibrant rosé sparkler is elegant, complex and long. Gruet Winery NV Blanc de Blanc Sauvage, America ($15) 89 A zero dosage bubbly from—yes!—New Mexico. Toasty and dry; fresh and racy with fresh, lively fruit; tangy and bright; long and balanced. PRECEPT WINE F R A N C E Bernard Remy NV Champagne Carte Blanche ($35) 89 A nice price for an off-dry style Champagne that would make a wonderful aperitif. SHIVERICK IMPORTS Bouvet-Ladubay NV Brut Signature, Loire Valley ($16) 89 Bouvet-Ladubay NV Rosé Excellence, Loire Valley ($16) 88 Bouvet-Ladubay NV Brut Excellence, Crémant de Loire ($18) 90 Generous and charming Loire sparklers at a fraction of the price of Champagne. KOBRAND Buena Vista NV Brut Champagne La Victoire ($50) 90 Once again, Jean-Claude Boisset is ahead of the curve with this authentic French Champagne produced under the label of his Sonoma winery. A game changer, and delicious to boot. BOISSET COLLECTION Champagne Collet . . . see feature story page 117. Delamotte NV Brut Champagne ($57) 91 Delamotte NV Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne ($76) 93 The unsung sibling of cult house Salon makes under-the-radar Champagnes that are earthy, minerally and yet entirely elegant. Very worth discovering. VINEYARD BRANDS Duval-Leroy NV Brut Rosé Champagne Prestige Premier Cru ($80) 92 This house is highly regarded in France and deserves more attention here. A beautifully balanced, food-worthy rosé with keen acidity. TERLATO WINES Nicolas Feuillatte NV Brut Champagne Réserve ($36) 90 Nicolas Feuillatte NV Brut Rosé Champagne Réserve ($53) 89 Nicolas Feuillatte 2006 Brut Champagne Palmes d'Or ($136) 92 Nicolas Feuillatte 2006 Brut Rosé Champagne Palmes d'Or ($202) 91 This relatively young house, founded only in 1976, is now owned by a cooperative, which allows it to source from many diverse growers. The attractive wines are constantly improving. STE. MICHELLE WINE ESTATES Gosset NV Brut Champagne Excellence ($45) 91 Gosset NV Grand Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne ($85) 92 Gosset NV Extra Dry Rosé Champagne Petite Douceur ($85) 93 Gosset claims to be the oldest Champagne house, dating back to 1584. The exceptional wines are made in a rich, full-bodied style with extended aging. WILSON DANIELS Charles Heidsieck NV Brut Champagne Réserve ($65) 93 Charles Heidsieck NV Brut Rosé Champagne Réserve ($80) 94 Charles Heidsieck 2005 Vintage Brut Champagne ($110) 95 Charles Heidsieck 2006 Vintage Rosé Champagne ($150) 94 Charles Heidsieck 1995 Blanc des Millénaires Champagne ($250) 95 The original Charles "Champagne Charlie" Heidsieck helped introduce Champagne to the United States in the 19th century. The wines are still outstanding, with layered yet precisely defined flavors and great freshness and vivacity. True wines of celebration and some of my all-time favorites. FOLIO FINE WINE PARTNERS

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