The Tasting Panel magazine

June 2017

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june 2017  /  the tasting panel  /  65 So the days of chow mein and Gewürztraminer are officially over? George: When I was learning my craft, my mentors were convinced that Chinese food and wine don't work together because there was no butter and no cream. I knew there was a great need for a platform to prove that Chinese cuisine and wine work won- derfully together. Hence, China Live! Duggan, I dined here last week and loved every bite and sip. Did you have reservations about this challenge? Duggan McDonnell: When I sat down with George last fall, he explained we have the opportunity to be the "thought leaders" in pairing Chinese cuisine with the wines of the world. I thought about it and became seduced by the idea. Imagine pairing wines with the world's oldest cuisine and virtually no rules to break! I was sitting here last week pairing Darioush Cabernet Sauvignon with your menu. It was not only enlightening, it was a lot of fun! You could have a real By-the-Glass Fest here every day. Duggan: Of course! We feature 23 wines by the glass every day. As for the Darioush, we discovered there is a lot of fear and linear thinking related to drinking big red wines with Chinese food. A lot of insiders are nervous. That idea was one of the first things to go. I say, be willing to bend and break any rules! Wine with food is an ongoing conversation and you have to be in the conversation to move it forward, to be thought leaders. I brought a big red today for just those reasons. It is the Antiques 2009 Garys' Vineyard Syrah. I love Syrah for pairing and this rich, full and supple red is just the ticket. Duggan: This bottle has that clas- sic aroma of black pepper, notes of smoked meat—I'm looking over at our barbecue station as we speak. And I'm looking at those Peking ducks hanging there and having a really big vision of what could be! Duggan: That reminds me: I am always looking for wines that are not perfect. I seek the highs and lows, vintage varia- tion, all the elements that make wine intriguing. For instance, this Syrah has a feral quality I really enjoy. How many seats are at China Live? Duggan: There are 150 seats and we are open from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. every day. What percentage of white to red wines are you serving to your guests? I would guess that white wine is the choice. Duggan: And you couldn't be more wrong. Our customers are gravitat- ing to red wine. Remember, we are in California and people appreciate reds in restaurants. Not just Cabernet Sauvignon—we have contemporary favorites such as Malbec, which does very well, and multiple Zinfandels. And before you ask, we do have a Gewürztraminer by the glass! I have to ask you: Is big Chardonnay a player here? Duggan: Of course it is, this is California. We want our guests to feel comfortable, enjoy whatever they desire, because we know how to pair wine with our cuisine. Staff training must be an impor- tant part of your program. Duggan: Every day we taste and have for- mal sessions led by myself and Sommelier Anthony Kim. We also host guest experts from the industry once a week. Is everyone allowed to sell wine here? Duggan: Everyone! All servers and bartenders are trained to serve and recommend wines. Our bussers and kitchen staff attend our training ses- sions as well. What's surprised you since your opening eight weeks ago? Duggan: Rosé has not yet had the impact I expected. We have multiple rosés by the glass and they do fine. But bubbles—bubbles have been selling! What about the world of wine needs to change? Duggan: We forget that the gods are in control of wine production. I mean Mother Nature and not us. Because a vintage is never guaranteed, neither will the perfect pairing always be the same thing. A perfect pairing is always a dance; we must remember vintage variations as well as trends in the wine industry. Taken together, the wines we pour today at China Live may be differ- ent from those we pour in the future, but our sincere effort will always be the same: Show that Chinese cuisine and wine work wonderfully together! "When I sat down with George last fall, he explained we have the opportunity to be the 'thought leaders' in pairing Chinese cuisine with the wines of the world," notes Duggan McDonnell. "I thought about it and became seduced by the idea. Imagine pairing wines with the world's oldest cuisine and virtually no rules to break!"

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