The SOMM Journal

February / March 2017

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  7 On the winemaking side, the foundation for these new projects was laid when the family finished the construction of the cutting-edge winemaking facility in 2006 and a winery expansion was completed last year. "When we made the decision to build our own winery," says Smith, "we wanted to have more control of the flavor profiles by putting more emphasis on small lots and separate fermentations for each block. For these reasons, we've experi - enced a significant change in the way we look at the vineyard from the ground up." Winemaker Justin Murphy, who repre- sents the third generation of the family, says the past decade has been a learning curve that's benefited everyone involved. "There have been a lot more changes than I ever imagined," he says with a smile. "But this new style of familiarity with each individual block has a much deeper meaning to our team than it ever did before." In working with veteran winemaker Larry Brooks, who rejoined them last year, the team has put more emphasis on fine- tuning the high-end wines by paying more attention to details in the vineyards. Brooks, who remembers watching the vineyard being developed while he worked across the valley at Chalone in the 1990s, says that the estate fruit has really hit its stride over the past decade: "I'll never forget admiring this special facing on the highlands when I would look across the valley from the much drier vineyards at Chalone. The natural balance of elevation coupled with warm days and cool nights made it one of the most ideal sites to grow world-class Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah on the Central Coast. But today, it's fantastic to see how the more mature vines at Paraiso Vineyard can handle the temporal climate changes for each vintage much easier than they did when I bought fruit from the vineyard 20 years ago." For the Pinot Noir programs, the diversity of flavors begins with an impressive lineup of Dijon clones that include 115, 667, 777, 828 and 943, as well as classic selections like Pommard and Martini. These characteristics shine through in the new 2014 releases of the SLH Pinot Noir, which features lingering notes of wild berries, cocoa and bright acid - ity. The same is true with the Alexander- Smith Pinot Noir, which is richer, deeper and more ethereal, with complex notes of black cherry, raspberry and fresh herbs on a velvety mouthfeel. "In the end, as a grower, this system gives us more play room and more options to make better wines with more concentrated flavors," says Smith. This is evident in the Chardonnay pro - grams, which include a magnificent mixture of Dijon clones planted in separate blocks with different soil compositions and sun exposures. In order to capture the natural aromas and bright flavors in the bottles, Brooks and Murphy have put more empha - sis on picking the grapes earlier to capture the combination of high-toned flavors and perfumed aromatics that often include white flowers with hints gardenia and jasmine. "Stylistically, these aromas really complement the natural richness and silky texture that are inherent in this region as well," says Brooks. In the cellar, Brooks and Murphy also use a minimalist approach. "As a winemaker, I consider what happens in the cellars a minor concern if it's done correctly without having to use a wide range of techniques. But if you don't get the vineyard in balance, then you'll have to rely on techniques you really shouldn't be using if highlighting the purity of the fruit is your main goal," says Brooks. "In our case, it certainly is." To make these new limited-production wines more available in select markets, the company hired longtime wine industry pro - fessional Mike Fine as VP of Sales & Marketing. And closer to home, Jason's wife, Jennifer Murphy Smith, serves as Creative Director, overseeing hospitality and retail sales at the two tasting rooms for Smith Family Wines at the home ranch in Soledad and in Carmel- by-the-Sea, both of which also carry the nice selections of Syrah from the Alexander-Smith and Paraiso labels, as well as the Irie wine brand created by Murphy a few years ago. "Everybody that owns vineyards and tast - ing rooms is committed to getting Monterey County on the world map," says Murphy Smith, with a smile. "The Smith family has been work - ing on this since I got here 20 years ago. Today, it's an effort that we and our neighbors are putting forward to make sure word about what's happening with Smith Family Wines and the Santa Lucia Highlands is spread around the nation on a regular basis." In the cellar: Veteran winemaker Larry Brooks rejoined the team last year. (Right) Jason Smith, now President and CEO of Smith Family Wines and Paraiso Vineyards, was four years old when his family planted the first vines on the Santa Lucia Highlands in 1973. Winemakers Justin Murphy and Larry Brooks in front of high-eleva- tion blocks at Paraiso Vineyards, which are SIP (Sustainability in Practice) Certified.

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