The Tasting Panel magazine

January / February 2017

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january/february 2017  /  the tasting panel  /  23 That is correct. Having the daily menu change allows us so much freedom, particularly on our wine-by-the-glass program. Everything here is constantly evolving. You must have a very loyal local following. Would it be more than 25 percent of your guest count? Oh, yes. The constant menu evolution makes it easy to always have a unique experience, no matter how many visits you have made. We consider ourselves a neighborhood restaurant, but a lot of guests make it a destination/special occasion spot too. Is Champagne a big player? I would love it if it was, but it's really not the huge player you would imagine. We do have a very high demand for Italian and local wines. We have some outstanding values on the list. California is still the top seller? Yes, Chef Evan [Rich] is a huge fan of California wines. Due to our location, we get a big number of winemakers coming to visit. I've gotten to meet a lot of my idols here! Which AVAs are enjoying the most success? Sonoma County is at the top of our list due to our guests' Pinot Noir affection. Santa Cruz County has really been gaining popularity. Napa, of course; we still sell a fair amount of older classic Cabernet Sauvignons on the list. We try to maintain a fair balance of modern and classic. I know that you have a very solid Burgundy list here as well. That is correct; we do very well with them. It's more of a hand-sell than California wine, especially when people are looking for an earthier, less fruit-forward selection of Pinot. What is the current rage that has surprised you? We are just killing it with wines from the Loire Valley. They have really taken off this year. In particular, off-dry wines like Chenin Blanc have done very well as pairings; it's a wine that can take you from start to finish with our menu. Staff trainings? We taste all staff members on everything by the glass. Our staff is very into wine. We have a winemaker and an importer waiting tables. Anyone on the floor can open a bottle of wine, including the host! It's small; how many tables? Eighteen tables, 12 bar seats. Are there any wines you struggle with? Wines from the Southern Hemisphere have been tough. We continue to feature a limited number of them, but they seem to be losing favor at the moment. There has been a lot of talk about pricing—both menu and wine list—in San Francisco. I think we're fair. If you come in, have a cocktail, a glass of wine and three courses, it should be around $150 per couple. Its' a small space; where is the wine stored? Downstairs and to the back of the basement. You really stay in shape when you work here! Space is limited, and I share the cellar with the kitchen and bar. We currently have around 380 wines on the list. We're drinking the lovely Sokol Blosser 2013 Big Tree Block Pinot Noir. Alex [Sokol-Blosser] really hit a home run here, even though he's a Dodgers fan. Classic Oregon: high acid, bright fruit and a nice oak balance. What needs to change about the world of wine? The pretension needs to go away. Wine is a great pairing for food but also for conversation. We're very casual here, but we serve outstanding wine to our guests. "We have a winemaker and an importer waiting tables. Anyone on the floor can open a bottle of wine, including the host!"

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