Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/76623
Ciprian Neacsu from Romanian producer Senator with the author. Located at the crossroads of Central and Eastern Europe, it is a Latin-based culture with a Romance language. Many wine- makers are using international varieties as a gateway to the new Romanian wines. Several producers use the same quality- wine standards as their prestigious counterparts: hand-picked harvests, lower yields, smaller productions and cuvée-quality releases—even the Communist-era co-ops are making strides in this direction. "We've started producing in small batches of three hectares for niche markets such as hotels and restaurants," said Dan Domnaru, Marketing Manager at Murfatlar, a 1955 co-op near the Black Sea. Privatized in 2000 and infused with some 50 million euros in improve- ments, including Australian and French consultants, it now produces 30 million liters and holds a 28 percent market share of DOC wines. The first premium wines were produced in 2010, and Murfatlar has turned out wine- makers who are making great strides elsewhere. Taking a First-Hand Look Last year, THE TASTING PANEL was in the first group of U.S. tasters invited by the consortium to see the revamped operations and sample new wines from the old country. Together, the members have nearly 14,000 hectares under vine. On display were gussied-up estates and a New World outlook. Vineyards that over-produced or became field blends under Communism are now fastidiously trellised. Flowering rose bushes at the ends of the rows are a sign that more than just the vines are in good health. At the heart of Romanian winemak- ing are its indigenous varieties, which mimic the world's best-loved varieties: Feteasca Neagra, an earthy and spicy red with black currant character, and Dreamfish is a U.S.- friendly label from Cramele Recas. Maiastru is from Carl Reh Winery–Crama Oprisor. august 2012 / the tasting panel / 105