Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/746412
98 / the tasting panel / november 2016 "I'm a big proponent of creating an immersive tiki environment," says Martin Cate, the tiki mastermind behind industry-leading rum houses like San Francisco's Smuggler's Cove. So when Cate decided to move into the San Diego market with new tiki bar False Idol, tucked into the back of American bar and eatery Craft and Commerce, he knew he'd have to go all out. "The cocktails are only one part of this entire spectrum of Polynesian Pop," explains Cate. "The first stop was working with tiki revivalist leading wood carver Bosko, who was tasked with breathing tiki into the very walls of False Idol. "We told him we wanted him to create every inch of the space. The walls them- selves are carvings, informed by his years of study in traditional Polynesian design." "Then," continues Cate, "we wanted to have this giant waterfall rock feature. We've got these flaming jets with a water and fire feature that really brings, along with Bosko's art, the look and feel of Polynesian Pop. Then we reached out to [Ignacio] 'Notch' [Gonzalez], who designed Smuggler's Cove, to give the space a unique color and patina. We wanted it to look like people smoked cigarettes in it for 40 years," continues Cate with a chuckle. No tiki bar is complete without glass fishing floats and puffer- fish, and Cate decided that, like everything else at False Idol, more is more. "We got 600," says Cate. "The ceiling is this unbelievable experience, almost like being under the waves. Every inch of the ceiling is intense and just covered; it's very, very pretty." While Cate and his team are pleased with the picture-perfect tiki environment they've created, he's also focused on the San Diego environment as a whole: "San Diego is a really important city for tiki culture," he explains, pointing to the Polynesian- inspired Shelter Island and old bars and restaurants of yore whose ephemera is now displayed in the False Idol glass case bartop. But all the fish floats and vintage swizzles in the world won't help if you don't have a great tiki cocktail program, so False Idol has those covered too: "We've got 36 drinks; 18 are historic classics—Mai Tais, Zombies, Navy Grogs—and those 18 drinks are paired spiritually with 18 modern drinks in the exotic cocktail style," explains Cate. "You might find mezcals, amaros, some unusual liqueurs and orgeats made with different nuts, all designed to showcase where tiki was, and how it can be vibrant and alive in the future." TAKING INVENTORY WITH . . . I love vintage American restaurants of all genres from the '40s through the '70s. The Mai-Kai, Fort Lauderdale, FL. The grande dame of the Polynesian Pop experience in America. Unmissable and unforgettable. New rums from small Caribbean producers, merchant bottlers and American microdistill- eries—bringing a passion and a dedication to tradition to a wide range of styles. New tiki bars that know that exotic cocktails are just the beginning; it's the art, music and immersive setting that complete the experience. Dressing up to visit a historic hotel bar. A Manhattan accompanied by a piano player is a perfect way to start the night. The expression "tiki as f—k". Tiki is about relaxation, escape and being social— not being competitive or aggressive. It feels discordant in our world of gentle music and twilight atmosphere. Austere, uncomfortable seating. Your minimalist metal seating shows your grasp of design is far greater than your interest in the comfort of your guests. "Master- classes." One hour with a distiller or brand ambas- sador has never made me a master of anything. What happened to just "seminar" or plain old "class"? The wrong music—why am I listing to drum and bass in this tiki bar? Distributors who get new small rums and don't tell me or don't know they even have them. I wish I didn't have to call with your own SKU to find something. THE "5" LIST MARTIN CATE'S FIVE FAVES MARTIN CATE'S FIVE PEEVES MARTIN CATE CO-OWNER, FALSE IDOL, SAN DIEGO, CA by Rachel Burkons