Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/746412
november 2016 / the tasting panel / 77 Sobon Estate 2014 Cougar Hill Zinfandel, Amador County ($18) With grapes from a 67-year- old sustainably-grown vineyard, this Zin is named for the cougar that seeks out the vineyard's nearby pond for its refreshment. I drank this wine accompanied by a grilled steak—an ideal match. Juicy black licorice melts over blackberry jam. Sour cherry comes in mid-palate with hints of blue flowers and dried mountain herbs. A kiss of black pepper further seasons its big, curvy body. 92 Gehricke 2014 Zinfandel, Russian River Valley, Healdsburg, Sonoma County ($30) 81% old-vine Zinfandel and 19% Petite Sirah are a striking duo in this 18-month French oak–aged super sipper. Grown in a warm vintage, the succulent notes of sweet peppered blueber- ries wander out of the glass. The mouthfeel is elegant and sensual: Orange peel and raspberry bring in the ripe, clean, juicy aspect, while the brambly brush and sage sense of place and a refined minerality are laced with almost invisible cocoa tannins. 94 3 BADGE BEVERAGE CORP Ferrari-Carano 2013 Trésor, Sonoma County ($60) Grapes sourced from the best blocks of Ferrari-Carano's vineyards in Dry Creek Valley a nd Alexander Valley results in one of the finest vintages yet for this Bordeaux-varieties blend. Made up of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Malbec, 9% Petit Verdot, 5% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc, this is the epitome of lush. The aromas of huckleberry, vanilla and espresso come forward with promise. And without disappointment, this red is generously mouth-filling. Plumped up plums, boysenberry and melted chocolate fudge gives an idea how sumptuous it is, with a hint of spiced tea on the finish for a touch of savory. 94 . Sanford Winery 2013 Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills ($35) A stunning vintage for this iconic Pinot, showing roses and earth on the nose and transitioning to red tea and pomegranate—a nice balance of tannins and tartness on the palate. Lean, with an acidity that sparks its mineral-graphite tones and feminine floral expression, the elegance and underlying power is impressive. 95 TERLATO WINES Sonoma-Cutrer 2014 Owsley Single Block Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($50) Owsley Ranch is this winery's clos- est vineyard to the Pacific Ocean, influenced by fog and cooling winds from the Bloomfield Gap. Pipe tobacco and exotic spice box character endow rosebuds in tilled soil. White pepper, watermelon and mountain brush add another level through to the finish. 92 BROWN-FORMAN VGS Chateau Potelle 2013 Zinfandel, Mount Veeder, Napa Valley ($65) Breathe in, and aromas of ripe raspberry, savory chocolate and sweet tobacco recruit you instantly. Espresso tannins are at their silkiest expression, while the liquid has density balanced with fine acidity. Dusty cocoa, mulberry and fig are dotted with black pepper. The finish is a long, black cherry-brandied ride. 93 Kuleto 2012 The Point Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($80) An earthy Cab (with 6% Syrah from a single Cab-Syrah co-fermented lot) exuding black licorice, tar and slate, bittersweet dark chocolate and blackberry-rosemary complexity. Dusted cherry-flavored cedar tannins show off for the huge finale, as dramatic as the views off the volcanic mountain estate itself. 93 FOLEY FAMILY WINES SPIRITS So'Rus Vodka, Ukraine ($34.99-$36.99) The nose is clean, clear with hints of marsh- mallow, plum and an echo of pink grapefruit. On the palate, the round mouthfeel is graceful and offers up a touch of salty brioche. It's a touch sweet as well, which perks up the smooth sailing finish. Distilled four times and reproduced from a 100-year-old recipe. 92 MK IMPORTS LLC Colkegan Single Malt Whiskey, USA ($50) Double-distilled in Santa Fe, New Mexico, in pot stills from 30% mesquite-smoked barley and 70% unsmoked barley and aged in 30% new and 70% once-used barrels, this 92-proofer offers up a smoky, bread crust nose. The smoke continues to glide between flavors of Brazil nuts, spiced cedar, orange zest, toffee and new leather. 91 SANTA FE SPIRITS Sea Fog American Whiskey, USA ($50) This 90-proofer is kissed by brine from the Atlantic Ocean from Newport, Rhode Island, the City by the Sea. Its pale and peat-smoked malt is aged seven years in 53-gallon bourbon casks. The nose is reminiscent of egg nog, cream soda and toffee-singed orange peel. The first sip is extremely generous and spreads across the palate on nymph-like feet. Elegant, with a long finish that eeks out a touch of saline and savory. 95 NEWPORT DISTILLING COMPANY Besamim Aromatic Spice Liqueur, USA ($29.95) A 74-proof tribute to the aromas of autumn. Nutmeg and spiced cedar on the nose lead to a warming palate that spreads across the tongue with allspice and an unctuous orange cinnamon musk. Made from hand- ground spices. 91 Colkegan Single Malt Whiskey, BROWN-FORMAN Mount Veeder, Napa Sea Fog American Whiskey, USA ($50) is kissed by brine from the Atlantic Ocean from Newport, Rhode Island, the City by the Sea. Its pale and peat-smoked malt is aged seven years in 53-gallon bourbon casks. The nose is reminiscent of egg nog, cream soda and toffee-singed orange peel. The first sip