Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/746412
In the Cellar Like the generations before him, Karl does not rest on his laurels in the cellar. In general, Chardonnay clusters from Arroyo Seco spend an extra month on the vines in comparison to the ones grown around Livermore. This factor, combined with the deep, rich soils in the region made famous by world-class produce and Steinbeck novels, results in more intense tropical fruits flavors than the slightly leaner and more mineral-driven expressions from the Chardonnays made with fruit from Livermore Valley. The isolation of these special flavors is based on picking date, lees contact and the use of special oak barrels, some of which are even ordered to their own custom specifications, that complement the signature styles that set the annual releases of the Morning Fog, Riva Ranch, Eric's Small Lot and The N th Degree Chardonnays apart from all the rest. Another inspiring white wine is the Louis Mel Sauvignon Blanc, which is named after the legendary winemaker who brought in the original cuttings of the varietal to the Livermore Valley from Château d'Yquem. "With Sauvignon Blanc, my point of view is that the raw flavors of a small oyster from British Columbia on the halfshell and the intangible burst of mineral and bright acidity dazzle the palate," says Karl. Granted, this style was not easy to perfect—as proven by Karl's inaugural vintage in 2002, which he admits was too ripe. Since then, he's started to pick earlier and the difference shows. "What I've found is that if Sauvignon Blanc tastes perfect on the vine, then you've missed the mark by a week," says Karl. "And although the flavors don't present themselves right away, they will later express themselves in the glass." On Red Winemaking This focus on perfection carries over to the red wine programs as well. For starters, Karl has a sign hanging on his wall that reads, "Love the wine you're with." So in addition to working with classic varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Sirah and Syrah that thrive in the warm climate conditions of the Livermore Valley and Pinot Noir grapes grown in the cooler-climate area of Arroyo Seco, Karl and Philip have also been experimenting with newer plantings of Malbec, Graciano, Tempranillo, Barbera, Counoise, Grenache and other intriguing red varieties. Karl often says, "the job is never done," and over the past few years, he has made extra investments in the vineyards and winery to increase quality of the red wines. Karl is always happy to receive feedback when he's out on the road or simply hanging out with customers who are participating at the festive tast- ing events, concerts, The Winemaker's Studio or culinary experiences hosted at the Wente Vineyards properties in Livermore. And this feedback has helped him continue to evolve his wine style, with the latest releases of reds being some of the best vintages yet. "To me, feedback is so important. For that reason, I love tasting with anybody that has a point of view. I've got thick skin and I know that everyone doesn't have to love everything. But at the end of the day, a great wine teaches us all lessons." Team Building Of course, Karl doesn't do it all by himself. For the bigger wine projects, his go-to man is Brad Buehler, who has been making wine with the Wente family for over 30 years. There are also young rising stars like Andy Lynch and Elizabeth Kester, who were recently promoted to winemakers for Wente Vineyards, and veteran winemaker Robbie Meyers, whom Karl first met when he interned at Peter Michaels in Knights Valley, is now the head winemaker at Murrieta's Well. 70 / the tasting panel / november 2016 COVER STORY