The SOMM Journal

October / November 2016

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  91 Ratti 2012 Conca Barolo (SRP $79.99) The Conca cru sits on just over three acres in the town of La Morra, nestling into the famed blue Tortonian soil. A warmer site in general, Conca exhibits riper fruit and a deeper hue. The eastern vineyards in the Barolo region yield more structure and power from a higher sandstone component in the soils, while the western vineyards provide finer tannins and elegance. Conca has the luxury of com - bining a bit of both of these personalities. Renato Ratti began the winery in 1965, with son Pietro taking over the business in 1988. The Ratti legacy that Pietro has sought to promote is the idea that the Barolo region is all about site, or cru. The Rattis mapped the vineyards of the area and were pioneers in labeling with crus. "They like to discuss, and then discuss, and then they like to discuss again," laughs Stephanie Caraway, explaining the almost 40 years it took to complete the maps she was handing out. Showing remarkable approachability for a 2012, the Conca emanates ripe plums, both red and purple, alongside mint and tobacco; the mouthfeel is broad in the mid- palate with pensive but pleasing tannins. This is a wine showcasing the warmth as well as the finesse of a particular site while maintaining the sturdy disposition of Nebbiolo. LUX WINES Stephanie Caraway (left) talked talked about Renato Ratti wines from Barolo. Here, she speaks with Chloe Helfand, Lead Sommelier for SLS Hotel in Las Vegas. ITALY

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