The SOMM Journal

October / November 2016

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  71 Reims and Côtes des Blancs appellations. Taking advantage of these prestigious vineyards—and the result of arduous winemaking techniques—is the Taittinger 2006 Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs; this prestige cuvée, made only in the best vintages, is 100 percent first-press Chardonnay aged ten years on lees (five percent in new French oak for about four months). Mendoza of The Ritz-Carlton says, "I find it to be classic, complex and intense without overpowering. It dances on the palate with elegance. I've had it once, and to this day I can still taste it." The orange-pink color of the Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé, made in a similar formidable fashion as the Blanc de Blancs, beckons with the color of falling leaves—naturally so, as it's made with 70 percent Pinot Noir from the Grands Crus of the Montagne de Reims, faring well with the richer foods of the holiday season. For those who feel the Taittinger vin - tage Champagnes reach too far into extravagance, there is always the non- vintage Taittinger Prestige Rosé. The Pierre's François Luiggi tells us, "We also offer Taittinger's Prestige Rosé that we have selected as a wonderful accompaniment to our afternoon tea, as it magnificently rep - resents ripe fruit, which complements our savory tea offerings quite well." But of all the pairing suggestions taken from all the experts we spoke with, it was Luke Kenning's pairing that best captured this time of year—but not for any culinary ingenuity. "In the fall I think of the start of theater season, as we are located in the theater district in San Francisco. When I get dressed up for the theater, I often prefer a glass of Champagne before or after the show. It doesn't make you tired and often keeps you happy!" Champagne, happiness and family. Is there anything more worth fighting for? Wine Director Luke Kenning of Farallon in San Francisco. PHOTO: ALEXANDER RUBIN < The Champagne is a reflection of elegance and matu- rity, not only in expression but also in the winemaking process.

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