The SOMM Journal

August / September 2016

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  91 Commonplace in the past, field blends made up the majority of table wine. We finish with a focal point of the night, two 100 percent Garnachas: Bodegas Paniza 2012 Viñas Viejas, showing pointed red fruit with just enough oak richness, and Bodegas San Valero 2012 Par ticular Viñas Centenarias, exhibiting ear thy under tones along with luscious ripeness. "The wines are all ver y balanced with lots of fresh, bright fruit. Seems as if all these wines are ver y enjoyable," admires Nancy Sabatini, Director of Wine Education and Sales at Mainstreet Wine & Spirits in Countr yside, IL. With more than 100 tasting glasses drained and smiles abounding, the dialogue shifts to the lifestyle of the Cariñena region as dinner is served. The export managers convey a real sense of pride. With fewer than 30 wineries producing in the region, co-operatives make the majority of wine. Bodegas San Valero buys fruit from more than 700 grape growers, Bodegas Paniza from more than 400 growers and Grandes Vinos y Viñedos works with growers in each of the 14 growing areas within DOP Cariñena. "There's a social component to our co-ops that is very important," com - municates Paco Pulido, Export Manager for Bodegas San Valero. The winery employs 120 people, half of them are women. In a rural area, many would have no jobs if not for the wine industry. Adds Pinedo, "It gives you the sense of community." Winemaking styles vary, as usual, from producer to producer. No oak, French oak, American oak—the overall theme of oak is to complement but not to overwhelm. Vintages have been consistent for the last three years, milder summers helping to define the ripe-fruit-with-acidity profile. "In 2015, everything lined up for a perfect vintage," smiles Sierra. As for viticulture, the grape moth threatens the vineyards of Cariñena, so many wineries have employed the use of pheromones in the vineyards. "Though the bottle price is quite afford - able, we use very expensive procedures," explains Beamonte. As Cariñena forges ahead to establish its reputation, the addition of Vino de Pago Aylés in the region can only help. Spanish wine law added the Vino de Pago category, the highest quality level, in 2003. With only 17 officially recognized Vinos de Pago to date across the country, it flies like a flag proving its quality. Often utilizing varieties not native to Spain along with indigenous variet - ies, the wines must show a sense of place, a unique character and supersede any regional specifications. I liken the Vino de Pago to the famed Italian Super Tuscans in that there are wonderful, trailblazing wines being made in outlying areas or where the wines do not conform to the current regulations. Garnacha and the region of Cariñena surprised many of the retailers with its affordability and drinkability. "This is a slam dunk for retail. Great packaging," declares Jeff Diamond, owner/buyer of Farmstead Cheeses & Wines in Oakland, CA. A red wine with overt fruit, salivating acidity and a price that can't be beat, Garnacha from Cariñena delivers solid wine to an eager market. "We come from the Old World, but it's kind of a New World wine," states Pinedo. Pulido expands, "Obviously, the fruit is ripe. For people not familiar with Spanish wine, discovering Garnacha from Cariñena would be an excellent way to start." Rachel Driver Spekan, National Wine Director, City Winery, Chicago, smells through the wines as we launch our exploration of fruit-forward, balanced wines from Cariñena. PHOTO: REBECCA PEPLINSKI "It demands food—lamb, something with spice," said Diego Pinedo, Export Manager for Bodegas Paniza, of the wine that spent about four years in the bottle after 12 months in a French oak barrel. He said it sells for less than $20. "The fruit is there, and the elegance is there," Paco Pulido, Export Manager for Bodegas San Valero, noted. "If you matched this with any kind of cheese, it would be a great combination." PHOTO: REBECCA PEPLINSKI PHOTO: REBECCA PEPLINSKI

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