Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/711666
74 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 The Cab Academy group, with panelists Dame, Hawkes, Wetzel and Stefen Soltysiak, CWE, CS and Wine Educator at Joseph Phelps Vineyards, tasted through classic examples of this region's wines. Francis Ford Coppola 2012 Director's Cut is red fruit–driven, while the impressive 100% Cabernet Sauvignon by Alice Sutro is still a baby. The Rodney Strong 2012 Alexander's Crown is well crafted, with soft, savory fruit but an assertive finish, grown in iron-rich sandy loam on a hilltop vineyard. Perfumed spice, darker fruit, violets and dusty tannins were found in the Hawkes 2012 Pyramid. Alexander Valley Vineyards 2012 Cyrus exhibited cinnamon plum brandy—riper fruit and a fuller, opulent body—with a distinct minty element. The Medlock Ames 2013 Fifty Tons displayed hedonis - tic, dark fruit, chalky tannins and a woodsy nose. The wines showed marked differences in aromatic profile and yet managed to share a common thread—we were in for two unforgettable days of exploration. As the 2012s hit the market, the academy sets up the majority of the wines to compare from that vintage, but as many buyers still have 2011s on their lists, the sommeliers were eager to discuss the variations between these years. 2011 was a cool vintage, and the wines showed less fullness on the palate. "Trying to make vintages taste alike is making a marginal product," Jake Hawkes explained. "Wine is agriculture, after all. Often as winemakers, we get so caught up in the structure that we lose sight of aromatics. 2011 may have lacked roundness, but it offered distinct aromatics. The last three vintages have been excellent. I like the '14s better than anything we've ever done," he shared. Dame declared, "I expect 2013 to be the best vintage in my lifetime." With four remarkable vintages on the horizon, things look good for Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. The fact that Bordeaux is suffering from a string of tough vintages doesn't hurt the plight for wider-spread recognition for Alexander Valley. As we move from the seminar at Hawkes Pyramid Vineyard to Hawkes Red Winery Vineyard for lunch, the ageability of these wines becomes the topic. With a dozen or more bottles, including magnums and three-liters of Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignons to taste, alongside a gorgeous al fresco barbecue, Dame acknowl - edges that the American palate focuses on young wines. "Maybe that's a bad thing, but maybe it's a good thing, too," he said, as most wine is consumed without aging. "But California wines, if stored well, can age just beautifully." Proof lies in the savory 2000 Alexander Valley Vineyards Cyrus, the ethereal 2000 Robert Young and the structured 2004 Hawkes in large format. Winemaker Rob Davis of Jordan Vineyard & Winery relayed an anecdote of a conversation with mentor Andre Tchelistcheff about the 1992 vintage, which Davis originally did not love. "Years from now, you'll look at this vintage as remarkable," encouraged Tchelistcheff. He was right—the wine shows mint and cedar with perfectly developed red and black currants and persistent but smooth tannins. Unintentionally, Davis segued into the next subject of the day when asked about the biggest changes he has witnessed over the years. "When I came here in the '70s, eighty percent of the vineyards were white grapes. The soils have led to Cab being the ideal grape here." CAMP [ ] Jordan Vineyard Winemaker Rob Davis addresses the group to discuss age-worthiness of Alexander Valley wines [photo taken at Hawkes Red Winery].