The SOMM Journal

August / September 2016

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  71 "I always ask, 'Why did something come into being, why did we invent something?'"Matricardi explains, "Chairs were invented because we grew tired of standing at a table; cars were invented to travel distances; Champagne came into being because the grapes produced from this region were too light and acidic to be enjoyed as still wine. Every step was made to remedy an issue." "Here in the Dolomites, we enjoy a unique climate and geology that affects the equilibrium and balance of the grapes produced here. Champagne sits at the 49 degrees latitude, where the quality of the cold comes from the latitude and less exposure of the vineyards to sunlight due to their northern nature." Matricardi continues, "Trentino is at 43 degrees latitude. Here the cold is from the altitude and our place in the mountains." Indeed, at 9,000 feet above sea level and nestled in the Southern Limestone Alps, Trentodoc (the regional trademark for wines from the Trento DOC) is one of the few places in the world where you can see vineyards growing next to glaciers. While Champagne and Trento are similar in terms of the temperature lows they achieve, the key difference climate wise rests in their temperature highs. "Trentino is a Mediterranean climate," explains Matricardi. "The consequence is that our vineyards get more exposure to sunlight during the growing season and therefore our fruit is more ripe, with richer aromas and flavors than the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes of Champagne." Regarding winemaking, Matricardi believes that "aromas should take you to the vineyard. Here at Rotari we seek to honor the grapes and the aromas of the vari - etal and the vineyard." He continues, "The personality of Rotari shows the fruity r ichness of the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir perfectly adapted to the Dolomitic territory. The complex aroma profile is then greatly amplified with delicate yeast nuances of nut, cookies and toasted bread, without any support from oak in order to emphasize the uniqueness of the territory." Trentodoc is chock full of dolomitic limestone. While the limestone of Champagne is primarily made up of calcite and aragonite, the limestone of Trento is made up of up to 50% dolomite, which is formed when the calcium ions in calcite are replaced by magnesium ions in a process known as dolomitization. While a little research and education will usually lead you in a good direction when purchasing wine, Matricardi's fail-safe advice when choosing a sparkling wine? "Trust your palate." The Wines All prices are suggested retail. Rotari 2013 Brut Blanc de Blancs, Trentodoc ($20) 100% Chardonnay Rotari Brut is a wine intended to be shared as an affordable luxury in day-to-day moments, 100% Chardonnay and intensely fragrant. The har- monious complexity ensures that it pairs well with a wide range of flavor profiles. Color: Straw yellow with elegant green notes. Bouquet: Rich, fresh, intense, with notes of pineapple, green apple, white flowers and delicately yeasty. Flavor: Full, with pleasantly balanced acidity. Perlage: Fine, elegant and persistent. Rotari 2013 Rosé, Trentodoc ($20) 75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay Rotari Rosé is produced from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that are both selected and harvested by hand. The Pinot Noir is har- vested slightly early, resulting in a wine that is structured, rich and beautifully aromatic. Color: Soft pink. Bouquet: Elegant, subtle hints of wild strawberry, cherry and currant. Flavor: Delicate and fragrant, with hints of yeast and spices. Perlage: Fine and persistent. About Gruppo Mezzacorona Gruppo Mezzacorona is a global wine competi- tor with a portfolio of internationally recognized brands, including Mezzacorona, Rotari Trentodoc Metodo Classico sparkling wines, and Stemmari Wines from Sicily. For more information, visit www.gruppomezzacorona.it. The Rotari bottles are rotated daily and gradually turned upside down to a vertical position, so that the sediment from the fermentation collects in the bottleneck. PHOTO: COURTESY OF ROTARI

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