The SOMM Journal

August / September 2016

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  115 Santiago Ruiz 2015 Albariño, O Rosal Santiago Ruiz is located in an idyllic, peace- ful setting surrounded by several acres of old vines trellised in the traditional style. Lovingly housed in a charming 17th cen- tury building, the winery perfectly combines time-honored tradition with the very latest advances in technology. The estate is based in the heart of the municipality of Tomiño. Yellow pear and honeydew underscored by wet river rock in this fuller bodied blend of Albariño (69%), Loureiro (13%), Godello (5%), Treixadura (9%) and Caiño Blanco (4%). JABS Castro Martin Family Estate Selection Sobre Lías 2014 Albariño, Val do Salnés The Martin family have been producing Albariño in the village of Barrantes for generations, originally for local consumption by friends, family and a few local restaurants. In 1981, Domingo Martin decided it was time to expand; he built the current cellar of Bodegas Castro Martin, with a capacity of 300,000 liters. Ripe peach, Meyer lemon, melon and bracing salty acidity in this 100% old vine (50-years average age!) Albariño. —JABS Terra de Asorei Pazo Torrado 2015 Albariño, Val do Salnés Terra de Asorei is an association of top growers belonging to DO Rías Baixas who have joined forces to produce premium, 100% Albariño wines. With over 172 acres of vineyards, it combines the passion of a family-owned com - pany with the professionalism of a larger organization to produce three wonderful wines: Terra de Asorei, Pazo Torrado and Nai e Señora. Green apple, white peach, passion fruit, talcum powder, and tongue tingling acid. Love this 100% Albariño. —AG Martín Códax 2014 Albariño, Val do Salnés Bodegas Martín Códax was founded in 1986 and was named after the most well-known Galician troubadour whose medieval poems, the oldest in the Galician-Portuguese language, have survived to the present. The wines of Martín Códax have won international acclaim and are sold in over 40 countries around the world, where they have come to symbolize Galician culture at its finest. Yellow apple, pear, and green almond play against the bright acid in this hand-picked 100% Albariño. Four-months lees contact. Excellent value! — JABS Lagar de Besada Baladiña 2013 Albariño, Rías Baixas Founded in 1988, Lagar de Besada was one of the first bonded winer - ies in DO Rías Baixas, committed to producing Albariño. The family takes great pride in the selection of the best Albariño grapes; their longstanding dedication combined with attention to detail at every stage, and careful production techniques such as extended lees aging results in wines of authentic character. A subtle, leesy nose transforms into pineapple, peach pit and a dash of sea salt. Elevated acid yet rounder in texture in this 100% Albariño aged for 12 months in tank. —JABS are up to seven feet high, allowing breezes to flow through for maximum circulation to prevent mildew and to promote even ripening. In the fall, ripened grape bunches form a ceiling-like canopy and are harvested by pickers standing on grape bins. Some vineyards are replacing the traditional parra canopy with a European double cordon system or espaldera. Throughout the region, yields are low, ranging from three to five tons per acre. Viniculture Trends & Techniques • Pre-fermentation maceration: After harvest, the Albariño grapes are lightly pressed. The juice, pulp and skins are left to macerate at low temperature from several hours to several days. • Wild yeast: Many Rías Baixas wine - makers now favor fermenting their grapes with the native yeasts found in their vineyards. • Barrel fermentation and aging: Although not common, this is mainly used in years of extraordinary ripeness to impart additional texture and increase the aging potential. • Malolactic fermentation: Normally prevented by the winemaker to maintain freshness, some allow their wines to go through complete or partial malolactic fermentation, producing a rounder, softer profile and better aging potential. There is a minimum alcohol level of 11.3% for Albariño wines, 11.5% for wines aged in oak and 11% for other white wine blends. • Extended lees contact: This is a very common practice in Rías Baixas and is a technique that is constantly being per - fected by winemakers. Albariño literally means "white grape from the Rhine."

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