The SOMM Journal

June / July 2016

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8 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } JUNE/JULY 2016 THE SOMM JOURNAL JUNE/JULY 2016 VOL. 3 NO. 3 C M Y CM MY CY CMY K COVER STORY 53 THE REAL DIRT Joel Gott Goes Wherever Great Grapes Are Grown to Create His Fantastically Successful Wines FIRST PRESS 5 BATTLE OF THE BARRELS Herzog Wine Cellars Launches Variations Oak FEATURES 44 THE MONDAVI HALF-CENTURY The Iconic Napa Valley Winery Throws a Festive 50th Anniversary Celebration—One That Founder Robert Mondavi Would Have Loved! 68 TIMELESS REFINEMENT King Estate Toasts 25 Years with a 1995 Pinot Gris 81 HIGH LATITUDE, LOW ATTITUDE Our British Columbia SOMM Camp Reveals Spectacular Winegrowing in Western Canada 92 WE'RE WITH THE WINEMAKERS Our Personal Account of the 2016 Cru Artisan College Experience 112 PASSION IN PASO ROBLES Our Band of SOMM Campers Descends on the Preeminent Central Coast Wine Region and Discovers the Wonders—and Bright Future—of Paso's Bordeaux-Style Reds DEPARTMENTS 4 Letter from the Publisher 10 Editor's Notebook 12 Notebook 14 Sonoma Scene: Bacigalupi Vineyards 16 Notebook: Trimbach 18 Technology: BinWise with Sarah Clarke 20 One Woman's View: Ao Yun 22 Planet Grape: Willamette Valley Barrel Auction 24 Bottom Line: Sense of Soil 26 Introductions: Steven Spurrier's Bride Valley 28 Real Somm Stories: Paul Ozbirn 30 Readers Respond 32 Glassware: Riedel in Napa Valley 34 Discoveries: The Umpqua 36 South America: Zuccardi 38 CIA Somm Summit 48 Down Under: Savoring South Australia in Austin 50 Bourgogne: Hidden Gems in the Mâconnais 58 Steven Spurrier's Letter from London 60 Wine Heritage: Filippo Mazzei 62 Q&A: In Harmony 65 Event Wrap: Women in Chablis 66 Scents and Accountability: Bitterness 72 Varietals: Monastrell-Mourvèdre-Mataro 76 Pacific Northwest: Reveal Walla Walla 78 Date with a Somm 80 Somm's List 100 Austria: Grüner Veltliner 103 Italy: Lamole di Lamole and Kettmeir 106 Fine Spirits: Kirk and Sweeney Rum 108 Hospice du Rhône Paso Robles 2016 119 Central Coast: San Antonio Winery 122 Closing Time: Vinateria 26

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