Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/661678
april 2016 / the tasting panel / 81 Reustle–Prayer Rock Vineyards 2013 Syrah, Masada Bloc, Umpqua Valley, Oregon ($40) Winemaker and proprietor Stephen Reustle's 2012 vintage of this wine won the International First Place Award from 6 Nations Wine Challenge. This nod to the growing potential from this Southern Oregon appel- lation has us taking note. Estate grown and produced, the nose imparts a field of heather and a powdered sense of cocoa. Mouth-filling with violet-dotted chocolate, cranberry and rhubarb play the acidity hand for sublime bal- ance. The silky palate and sleek tannins make for a textural dream, with a cross between salinity and white pepper on the finish. 95 Aperture Cellars 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley ($55) Tobacco and violets make a daring pair in this tremendously deep, jammy red. Malbec (5%) is blended in, a beloved variety of winemaker Jesse Katz, who has spent time in Argentina and more recently in Bordeaux, where he worked the Pétrus harvest after he left Lancaster Estate. The sleek, silky wine is aged 22 months in 100% French oak (50% new). 93 J. Bookwalter 2012 "Protagonist," Columbia Valley ($60) 91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Syrah From its fragrant sandalwood-chocolate nose to its devel- oped palate of plum and violet, this is an outgoing, vivacious and savor y red. Perfectly balanced, it's a nod to the great 2012 growing season. 94 J. Bookwalter 2013 "Protagonist," Columbia Valley ($60) 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Syrah This pitch purple-black opaque wine offers up a nose of tar, graphite and toasted oak, which is mirrored on the palate as its character expands into tobacco and rustic tannins that coat the tongue. An aromatic lift is in the blackberry core. In 2013, Washington State experienced its highest recorded tannin and color potential. 90 Davis Estates 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($60) Pure luxury. A fragrant orange- lavender, a touch of spearmint and Oreo cookie and threaded by blueberry, blackberry. Chocolate fudge streams through the mid- palate. Chewy, deliciously broad strokes of fudge and cherry on the finish. 93 Levendi 2013 "Sweetwater" Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($60) The grapey/currant syrupy effect is attributable to the sunshine-filled 2013 vintage and this Cab shows it beautifully. The grapes are grown on rocky red-soiled slopes and the wine's texture—strikingly rich—has a backdrop of slate and dried lavender. Chocolate pudding surfaces heroically on mid-palate. The creamy French oak drives texture further, enveloping the palate in what seems like forever. This is one to watch. 95 IMAGE Upchurch Vineyard 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, Washington State ($68) From a single plot on a small plateau (Red Mountain is not a mountain), located on the eastern end of the Yakima Valley, Red Mountain is Washington State's smallest appellation and one of its warmest growing areas. White pep- per and soy on the nose, with blackberry so ripe and fragrant. A plethora of flavors—basil, marjoram, cedar, pencil shaving, violet, lavender and olive—keep adding dimension. 96 BACCHUS WINEWORKS Venge Vineyards 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Bone Ash Vineyard, Calistoga, Napa Valley ($105) Black/purple–hued, the scent of black licorice and burnt tobacco on the nose is seductive and on the palate—it coats the tongue. This red is spiced by chili pepper and black pepper, regulated by an abundance of blackberry pie filling. Cigar leaf shows through this powerful anvil, its grapes grown in volcanic soil. But the anvil doesn't hammer down; instead, it paints the palate, stroke by stroke. 96 SPIRITS Rumson's Rum, Trinidad ($32) Orange, pekoe tea and cigar leaf on the nose. Brown sug- ared chocolate-covered orange on first sip is layered and delicious. Sinewy and lengthy, a lemon drop opens up on third pass—a hint of spiced cinnamon stick leaves you wanting more. 80 proof. 91 PIRATE DOG BRANDS LLC Mezcal Marca Negra Espadín, Mexico ($65) Ripe agave and pineapple, baked in the sun, are aromatic with a dry, smoky nose. Spiced pecans on the palate pique the tongue and are followed by a lemon-lime- pepper barbecue rub flavor. Texturally creamy. 102.2 proof. 92 HPS EPICUREAN Tasted side by side, these two stellar reds got our attention with huge, engaging texture and flavor. Blends dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, each has a small percentage of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. House Family Vineyards 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains ($54) Toasted oak and caramel-cherry chocolate were prominent features of the 2010. Broad, generous black currant and blackberry inspire a bright acidity. This wine is texturally delightful—round yet "massive" in style with an anise-salinity on the finish. 93 House Family Vineyards 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains ($52) The 2011 impressed with tobacco and dark, sunshine-packed dark fruit. Savory notes of olive, damp earth and figs were pleasant with the good acidity. 92 Trinidad Orange, pekoe tea and cigar leaf on the nose. Brown sug- ared chocolate-covered orange on first sip is layered and delicious. Sinewy and lengthy, a lemon drop opens up on third pass—a hint of spiced cinnamon stick leaves you