The Clever Root

Winter / Spring 2016

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W I N T E R / S P R I N G 2 0 1 6 | 8 7 ■cr The monthly menu at Ember reads like an homage to local purveyors, with particular appreciation for Rutiz Farms, just one mile down the road. Like Col- lins, farmer Jerry Rutiz has made a name for himself outside of Arroyo Grande, selling pesticide-free produce at Santa Monica's Wednesday farmers' market, most of which is purchased by high-end Los Angeles restaurants, including Lucques, AOC and Animal. But the rest of the week, Rutiz can be found on his tractor, in the dirt, or selling produce to the public at his on-site farm stand. "My training and background is geared toward searching out people like Jerry who have a community farm," says Collins. Much of Rutiz's success with chefs stems from a willingness to grow obscure or off-beat varieties; Collins in particular appreciates Rutiz's broccoli calabrese. "It has a depth of flavor and complexity that's spicy almost like mustard, and very versatile," he says. "When we create a dish, we see a night-and-day dif- ference between Jerry's broccoli and the standard floret, or a pepper that's beautifully ripened and a refrigerated bell pepper that's from wherever. When we write the menu, we always keep that difference in mind." Without places like Rutiz Farms, it's clear that Ember—which sources be- tween 50 and 85 percent of its produce from local farms—couldn't exist. (Nor could the several new farm-connected eateries that have cropped up through- out the region, undoubtedly inspired by Ember's success.) In addition to the benefits of fresh produce and dishes that reflect their provenance, scaling down the loop between farm and table compels Ember's army of regulars to stay current with the seasons, to come back for whatever is new and different. "We change the menu monthly to keep people tuned in and interested in what's going on here," he says. This has been my goal for over 20 years. To finally arrive and to be doing well is a dream come true." Farmer Jerry Rutiz holds a shoot of broccoli calabrese, an Ember Restaurant favorite. Heirloom cran- berry beans. Ember's Pollo al Mattone ("chicken cooked under a brick"): Mary's Farm Chicken with grilled polenta and broccoli calabrese.

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