Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/648009
7 8 | t h e c l e v e r r o o t DISCOVERING THE CULINARY HEART OF S tanding at the topmost point of historic Monte Rosso Vineyard, we survey rows of neat, hunkered head-trained vines. Up here, the fine rust-colored volcanic soil clings to our boots and we squint in the bright Indian summer sunlight. e original blocks date back to the 1880s and are home to some of California's oldest plant- ings of Semillon, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel. And they are still productive and still dry-farmed, despite the ongoing drought. e vine- yard spans 575-acres, with elevated terraces stretching supine across the gently contoured southern slopes of the Mayacamas mountain range. Native trees—manzanita, scrubby oak and pine dot the landscape. Monte Rosso was acquired by E&J Gallo in 2002 along with the purchase of the Louis M. Martini Winery, and our group, largely comprised of food and wine journalists, was invited to explore not only local vineyard sites, but also to experience the wine and food culture in Napa Valley, Sonoma Valley and the Russian River Valley firsthand. e aernoon trek to Monte Rosso proved to be a stark contrast to the cool, dimly-lit subterranean barrel aging room we dined in only an hour before while touring the Louis Martini winery. Our table, hemmed in by massive oak foudres that are nearly as an- cient as some of Monte Rosso's vines, set the stage for a dramatic menu that perfectly complemented the underlying concentration and grip of wines from Monte Rosso. Chef Morgan Robinson of Smoke, who spe- cializes in open-fire cooking, shows off his wine-pairing sagacity with a melt-in-your-mouth New York Akaushi steak resting atop a generous dollop of smoked potato purée. e purée surprises with its luxurious, silky texture and smoky overtones, and pairs beautifully with the Louis Martini 2011 Monte Rosso Caber- net Sauvignon. is is a Cabernet endowed with intensity, but also the sort of firm acid spine required to stand up to so much richness. that perfectly complemented the underlying concentration and grip of wines from Monte Rosso. Chef Morgan Robinson of Smoke, who spe cializes in open-fire cooking, shows off his wine-pairing sagacity with a melt-in-your-mouth New York Akaushi steak resting atop a generous dollop of smoked potato purée. e purée surprises with its luxurious, silky texture and smoky overtones, and pairs beautifully with the Louis Martini 2011 Monte Rosso Caber net Sauvignon. is is a Cabernet endowed with intensity, but also the sort of firm acid spine required to stand up to so much richness. NAPA AND SONOMA STORY AND PHOTOS BY CHRISTINE HAVENS cializes in open-fire cooking, shows off his wine-pairing sagacity with a melt-in-your-mouth New York Akaushi steak resting atop a generous dollop of smoked potato purée. e purée surprises with its luxurious, silky texture and smoky overtones, and pairs beautifully with the Louis Martini 2011 Monte Rosso Caber- One of the original prune barns at MacMurray Estate Vineyards. Today, it serves as a space to welcome visitors. HOME GROWN