The Clever Root

Winter / Spring 2016

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Page 28 of 104

WHITE 89 Kenwood Vineyards 2014 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County ($12) Cool- climate fruit from Carneros and the Russian River Valley brings crisp, grassy notes, while grapes from warmer Sonoma Valley add rounded, tropical tones. A nicely complex wine at an everyday price. PAIRS WITH: Morro Bay black cod and slow- cooked pork belly accompanied by Szechuan yams and red miso, from Chef Damon Gordon, Culinary Director of Los Angeles–based Water Grill (page 8). 88 Conde Valdemar 2013 Finca Alto Cantabria White Rioja, Spain ($12) White Rioja (made in this case from the Viura grape) is not nearly as well-known as its red sib- ling, but deserves more attention. Dense, floral, juicy and inviting. PAIRS WITH: Chef Matthew Kenney's favorite dish from Plant Food + Wine, located in Venice, CA: MK Salad with mixed greens, sprouts, avocado, dulse, hemp seeds, fennel crackers, olives and lemon dressing (page 43). 90 Zaca Mesa Winery 2014 Estate Viognier, Santa Ynez Valley ($18) One of Santa Barbara's pioneer wineries makes a creamy, fresh and aromatic version of this white Rhône varietal. PAIRS WITH: Warm grilled organic kale salad, cannellini beans, rosemary, shaved parmesan, 30-year-aged sherry vinaigrette from Chef Serena Bass of Lido in Harlem (page 56). 91 Matanzas Creek 2013 Chardonnay, Sonoma County ($26) Lovely, generous fruit with tones of toasty vanilla oak and under- played acidity. PAIRS WITH: Executive Chef Eric Olson's halibut grilled over oak and fruit wood with Santa Bar- bara spot prawns, oyster mushrooms, risotto and local carrots made with passion fruit, from Cello Ristorante at Allegretto Vineyard Resort in Paso Robles, CA (page 92). RED 88 Jacob's Creek 2013 Two Lands Shiraz, Australia ($14) Crafted in collaboration with California winemaker Ehren Jordan. Mint and vanilla in the nose; spicy blackberry leads on the palate; long, tangy and luscious. PAIRS WITH: Chef Samuel Kim's vegetarian dish, Forager's Bounty: Anson Mills bianco perla po- lenta, a mélange of roasted mushrooms, red pearl onions, a coddled egg and Burgundy truffles, at 1789 Restaurant in Washington, D.C. (page 81). 90 EOS Estate 2013 Zinfandel, Paso Robles ($18) An unmistakable bright berry nose of Zin leads to tangy black raspberry fruit; clean and balanced with good depth and style. PAIRS WITH: Chef Brian Collin's Pollo al Mat- tone ("chicken cooked under a brick"): Mary's Farm chicken with grilled polenta and broccoli calabrese, at Ember restaurant on California's Central Coast (page 87). 90 Waterbrook Winery 2013 Reserve Malbec, Columbia Valley ($24) Wash- ington State struts its stuff in this dark, juicy and complex Malbec with elegant style and ripe blackberry, cassis and spice. PAIRS WITH: A bone-in prime rib, one of the flavorful aged cuts from Flannery Meats in Marin, CA that Trevor Kunk works with at Press Napa Valley (page 100). 92 Estancia Winery 2013 Reserve Mer- itage, Paso Robles ($30) This ripe and seamless Bordeaux-style blend (69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot ) shows why Paso Robles is the most exciting place in California for winegrowing today. PAIRS WITH: The slow-roasted "116th Bird" at Chef Marcus Samuelsson's Streetbird Rotisserie in Harlem (page 54). ROSÉ & SPARKLING 90 Château d'Esclans 2014 Rock Angel Grenache Rosé, Côtes de Provence, France ($29) Sacha Lichine is one of the world's best producers of rosé. This is just one of several different versions produced on his exceptional property in Provence. PAIRS WITH: Chef Joe Magnanelli dish of octopus, chickpeas, microgreens and sundried tomatoes from CUCINA Urbana in San Diego (page 94). 89 Jansz Premium Rosé, Tasmania, Australia ($25) This very pale pink non-vintage sparkler from the Aussie island of Tasmania (and made by the "Méthode Tasma- noise") is smooth, fresh and lively with tangy berry fruit and surprising depth. PAIRS WITH: Dallas cheesemaker Paula Lambert's hoja santa–wrapped goat cheese (page 61). REVIEWS clever 2 8 | t h e c l e v e r r o o t + + + + + + + + + + A selection of food-friendly wines, matched with recipes from this issue. by Anthony Dias Blue ■cr

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