The Tasting Panel magazine

Jan 2010

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Acordeón 2009 Torrontés, Cafayate Val- ley, Salta ($14) Spice and floral notes and lively acidity; clean, balanced and long with lovely flavors. 89 points FREIXENET USA Alta Vista 2008 Torrontés, Classic, Salta ($8) Bright and aromatic with tangy citrus and floral notes with mineral notes; juicy and nicely structured. 88 BUENA CEPA WINES Alta Vista 2008 Torrontés, Premium, Estate, Salta ($13) Silky and juicy with racy, pure citrus and tropical fruit with lovely floral notes; bright acidity and outstand- ing balance; a stunning example of the variety. 90 BUENA CEPA WINES Valentin Bianchi 2009 Elsa Bianchi Torrontés, Mendoza ($10) Smooth and bright with juicy, tangy flavors of citrus and tropical fruit; aromatic, charm- ing and nicely balanced. 89 QUINTESSENTIAL WINES CeLLaR FocuS aRgenTina's SIgnature WhIte is ReaDY FoR iTs CLose-uP by Anthony Dias Blue Torrent Torrontés t he past year or so has not been kind to most imports. Wines from several coun- tries that usually do well in the U.S. market are slipping significantly in sales. In contrast, Argentine wines have grown by more than 50% in the domestic market, and Argentina, whose vinous production was virtually unknown as recently as twenty years ago, is surging into the top five of countries exporting to the U.S. Of course, the prime mover among Argentine wines is Malbec, the lush French variety that has found such impressive success in Argentina, particularly in the vine- yards of Mendoza. But other wines from Argentina have also found a fertile market in the U.S.—Cabernet Sauvignon, Bonarda and now, Torrontés, Argentina's signature, indigenous white variety. This fresh, aromatic variety grows in Mendoza, where most Argentine wine is produced, but it is particularly successful in Salta, north of Men- doza, where it flourishes at very high altitudes. Some vineyards are close to 8,000 feet above sea level. Torrontés has been found to be a cross between aromatic Muscat of Alexan- dria and the Criolla Chica grape (familiar in California as the Mission vari- ety), dating back to the time of the Conquistadores. Although often used for blending in the past, Torrontés has become a respected varietal in its own right thanks to improved vinification techniques. It's well on its way to a place on the world stage. With yellow-green color and a nose of rose petal, orange-peach and herbs, Torrontés makes a lovely aperitif and also goes well with spicy Indian and Asian dishes. It is also an extremely good value. 68 / the tasting panel / january–february 2010

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