The Tasting Panel magazine

Jan 2010

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34 / the tasting panel / january–february 2010 L ong-time distiller Stuart Nickerson is a frustrated man. After a distinguished career (Glenrothes, Highland Park, Glenfiddich) he's just spent around $2 million re-opening long-lost Highland single malt Glenglassaugh. First opened in 1875, Glen- glassaugh has had a checkered history but looks set fair under new ownership. And its two top whiskies, long slumbering in the seaside warehouses but bottled in 2009, have just collected the blue ribbon trophies for 30 and 40 year old Scotch from the Internation- al Wine & Spirit Competition. Scotland's First Minister Alex Salmond turned out to restart the distillery, and former Glenmorangie manager Graham Eunson has been hired to take on day-to-day operations. Seems rosy, doesn't it? So what's bugging Nickerson? Getting U.S. distribution, that's what. First problem is the convoluted three-tier system that sometimes ties small companies up in ribbon, when they're not dealing with labelling requirements and introducing a (for them) non-standard 75 cl. bottle. Then Glen- glassaugh has had to cope with the economic climate. "It's no different for anyone else," admits Nickerson "except that we had to try to find new partners for an unknown super-premium single malt just as everyone was drawing back and cutting inventory. We know the quality of what we've got and can prove it; we just need the chance." He's not alone in his enthusiasm. To take one example, Brett Pontoni, Speciality Spirits Buyer for Chicago's Binny's Beverage Depot told me, "This is a gem of a distillery. Inquiries I receive from consumers and collectors tell me I'm not the only person welcoming Glen- glassaugh back." Back in Scotland's speciality liquor stores the 21 Year Old version retails at around $235, including tax ,and the range runs up to a swanky 40 Year Old (the big trophy winner) at close to $2,500 for a 70 cl. crystal decanter. So it's not an everyday dram; but, asks Stuart Nickerson, "Doesn't America deserve the best?" scotch rEPort PHOTO: BLUE SKY PHOTOGRAPHY Stuart Nickerson (left) receiving the Internation- al Wine and Spirits Competition trophy for best 40 Year Old Scotch Whisky from Sir Ian Good. The U.S. deServeS revived Single malT GlenGlassauGh STOP PRESS: As we are going to print it seemed probable that Purple Valley Imports will import Glenglassaugh beginning this spring. It seems everything comes to him who waits. story and photos by Ian Buxton top-notch Scotch

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