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trail overlooking a stream. Jerry Johnson Hot Springs has several separate pools, so there's a better chance of not having to share, if that's what you prefer. LOCHSA LODGE I loved our adventures, but a er a long, sweaty, buggy hike, nothing thrills me like a shower and a good night's sleep in a comfortable bed. We spent our three Idaho nights at Lochsa Lodge, a collection of cute wooden cabins spread around a big grassy area overlooking the river, and cooked most of our food on a camp stove on our porch. We did en- joy one dinner at the lodge's restaurant—known for desserts made from local blackberries and huckle- berries—where vegetarian menu options included pasta primavera, veggie burgers and large salads. Quite a few of the lodge guests are touring on motor- cycles, and we also met half a dozen bicyclists, many on pilgrimages and other journeys. Our lodge neighbor, for example, was doing a memorial cross-country ride for her brother, an avid cyclist who had leapt off the Golden Gate Bridge 11 years earlier. With this jour- ney she hoped to incorpo- rate that part of her brother into her own life story. IF YOU'RE A COY- OTE, BE A COYOTE In an oral history interview housed in the Nez Perce Historical Park Archive, tribal member Imogene Goudy told a story about Coy- ote's trip to buff alo country. Hungry and far from home, out in the plains, Coyote saw buff alo eating grass. He began to think his life would be bet- ter if he were a buff alo, and a er many days of begging the reluctant king of the buf- falo, he had his wish granted. At fi rst, Coyote loved it. He ate grass until his belly was full. He chatted amiably with the other buff alo. en one day another coyote showed up, and Coy- ote suddenly realized he wasn't meant to be a buff a- lo. He persuaded the king to turn him back into a coyote, and the two coyotes le buf- falo country. is odd little story reminds me that while we humans yearn for transformation and reinvention, it is wise to temper the urge with a dose of "to thine own self be true." I may get more sure- footed on stream crossings, but I will always be more urbanite than mountain goat. And much as I enjoy challenging hikes and stone-beautiful wilderness, I'm always going to be happier sleeping in a bed than out under the stars. On our way home a er a restorative four days, as we drove along the Loch- sa River breathing in the fresh mountain air, period- ic whiff s of carcass gave me perspective. At home, my aspirations are large, my contentment too o en tied to accomplishments. But in the Selway-Bitterroot Wil- derness, all creatures, in- cluding humans, have their unique place in the ecosys- tem. e pungent scent of carcass reminded me that this place is a precious and temporary privilege, one we should cherish. Photos: top, Lochsa Lodge; bottom, Teresa Bergen 30 wholelifetimes.com