The Clever Root

Fall / Winter 2015

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f a l l / w i n t e r 2 0 1 5 | 6 9 over 100,000 students. Close to 100 gardens have been installed in Chicago Public School lots, giving at-risk students the chance to enjoy learning farming and busi- ness basics in a healthy community environment. The kids dictate what to grow in their school garden, with the guidance of an entrepreneur advisor. They're taught to consider how quickly they can turn over the garden to create a continuous revenue stream. In this first harvest year, the kids spend one day a week working on and harvesting in the gardens. The produce is then delivered to The Kitchen, where Chef Anderes and his staff go to work. Similar to his farmer relationships, Anderes visits the gardens monthly to communicate with the kids and see the growth process for himself. He encourages but also inspires them to take charge of what they are growing and how much they can sell him. One beautiful, sunny July day in Chicago, I had the opportunity to visit the garden, followed by experiencing Chef's creativity in the kitchen. As in Top Chef, Anderes is confronted with a completely random assortment of fresh produce weekly from various school gardens. He then has a few hours, or at times up to overnight, to craft a menu special for the day. I watched him consider preparations for gigantic collard greens, brilliant orange Sungold tomatoes, plump red garlic, loads of fresh basil, and gorgeous purple onions. He hands one of his kitchen cooks a pound of spaghetti to throw into boiling water as he starts his prep. He rough-chops the onions and garlic, halves the toma- toes and slices the collards into ribbons. In a hot pan, he adds the olive oil and once it's sizzling, throws in the garlic, onions then the tomatoes, blistering them until browned. Next up are the collard greens, which wilt immediately. He lets the fragrant mixture reduce for a few minutes then adds a splash of the pasta water, a few shakes of Sherry vinegar, salt, and pepper. He tosses the pasta into the sauce, coats the noodles, and plates the finished dish. He tops it with Parmigiano Reggiano and garnishes it generously with fresh torn basil. It's an elegant dish with humble beginnings. "We had a group of kids in here and I found some of them were super capable and excited to be in the restaurant," says Anderes. "The goal for me now is the get more of the juniors and seniors in high school to come in with the produce so I can pay them to prep and learn how to work in the kitchen," he adds. Resourceful and conscientious chefs like Anderes are instrumental in putting into action the research and discoveries of sustainability luminaries like Michael Pollan, author of The Omnivore's Dilemma, notes Anderes, "It's the ultimate responsible partnership that keeps the good food movement going." The fruits, vegetables, and flowers of their labor Close to 100 gardens have been installed in Chicago Public School lots, giving at-risk students the chance to enjoy learning, farming, and business basics in a healthy community environment. ■cr

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