Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/597666
78 / the tasting panel / november 2015 DISTILLERY NO. 209, LOCATED ON SAN FRANCISCO'S PIER 50, is the creation of Leslie Rudd, former owner of Dean & DeLuca and founder of Napa Valley's Rudd Oakville Estate Winery. (The original distillery near St. Helena was the 209th licensed distillery in the U.S., hence the name.) Distiller Arne Hillesland, a former Silicon Valley tech guru, was instructed "not to make my grandfather's gin," so he toned down the juniper and "brought up a lot of citrus and spice notes," including bergamot orange, cardamom and cassia. The pot still Hillesland uses, named Rosie, was built in Scotland and is modeled on a still at the Glenmorangie distillery. Hillesland notes that San Francisco Bay is roughly 55 degrees year-round, which keeps the waterfront distillery at an even temperature. An additional barrel-aged Reserve line explores the influence of ex-wine barrels on aged gin—each is very distinctive. The kosher-for-Passover line extensions—a gin and a vodka—are produced under the supervision of the Orthodox Union, using a sugarcane base spirit and avoiding herbs that are not allowed under kosher law. This is an impressive portfolio of spirits that shows the wide range of possibilities in the booming gin category. 88 Matchbook 2014 Old Head Chardonnay, Dunnigan Hills ($15) Buttery, toasty and creamy with pear fruit and nice notes of vanilla; rich and ripe. MATCHBOOK WINE COMPANY 88 Cantine Neirano 2014 Murale Pinot Grigio, Veneto, Italy ($15) Tangy acidity and crisp fruit keep this Pinot Grigio racy, fresh and long. WINE TREES USA 88 Maison Louis Jadot 2014 Chardonnay, Mâcon-Villages, France ($15) Silky and crisp with fresh, juicy citrus; smooth, polished and balanced; fresh and tangy. KOBRAND 88 Barefoot Cellars NV Merlot, California ($7) What's not to like a about a fresh, spicy budget Merlot with blackberry and cassis? GALLO 88 Fetzer 2013 Valley Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($10) Bright-toned plum on smooth texture; tangy and lifted, fresh and balanced. A charming re-entry for this important brand. 88 Ernesto Catena Selections 2014 Padrillos Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina ($12) From the scion of Argentina's leading wine family, this is quite a mouthful of Malbec, with dense berry fruit and keen spice. VINEYARD BRANDS 88 Lapostolle 2013 Casa Grand Selection Cabernet Sauvignon, Valle del Rapel, Chile ($14) Ripe blackberry and rich style charaterize this Chilean Cab with earth, green herbs and a long, dense finish. TERLATO WINES BLUE REVIEWS 92 No. 209 Gin, USA ($38) 100% corn from the Midwest. Mellow and polished with lovely botanicals and soft juniper ; dry, elegant and soft with silky texture and a long, lush finish. 92 No. 209 Barrel Reserve Gin Aged in Sauvignon Blanc Barrels, USA ($60) Smooth and aromatic with spice and herbal hints; toasty oak and nicely integrated flavors; long and seamless. 94 No. 209 Barrel Reserve Gin Aged in Chardonnay Barrels, USA ($60) Light amber ; toasty, vanilla nose; butterscotch and crème brûlée; mellow, smooth and balanced, rich and long. A great Martini gin! 95 No. 209 Barrel Reserve Gin Aged in Cabernet Sauvignon Barrels, USA ($60) Copper color ; toasted strawberry nose; smooth, spicy and toasted with cassis and berry fruit; earthy, long and complex, mushroomy. 91 No. 209 Gin Kosher for Passover, USA ($42) Clean and soft with savory, lush style; silky and long, rich and mellow; unique in the world. 91 No. 209 Vodka Kosher for Passover, USA ($42) Very smooth and mild with vanilla and soft texture; lush, balanced and long; elegant. The Gin from San Francisco Distillery No. 209 Is the Spirit of the City by the Bay