Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/580744
{ SOMMjournal.com } 53 Visionary Thinking Domäne Wachau claims a birth year of 1715. By then, Austrian wine and its agricultural traditions were nearly a thousand years old. While walking the myriad small, mostly terraced, vineyard parcels that define Domäne Wachau, the flavor of history wells up beneath your feet. The moderating effect of the Danube melds the westerly Atlantic climate of central Europe and the Pannonian climate of Hungary. Here even the weather is torn between East and West. Today, the delicate balance between the forces of nature and the forces of commerce provides the visionary thinking of a winery with ancient footing and validation. Practicing a philosophy of benevolent neglect, the winemakers know that no matter what comes down or up the river, the wines from these hallowed grounds will speak well. Roman Horvath, Director of Domäne Wachau, holds the coveted Master of Wine designation. His approach is driven by a very broad appreciation for the world of wine. Not constrained by parochial bias, he drives the winery with strict vineyard standards echoed in the clarity of these hand-grown wines. In concert with the worldview of Horvath is winemaker Heinz Frischengruber. Born and raised in the Wachau Valley, Frischengruber brings a generational appreciation for the unique place on earth that is the Wachau. To these men, wine is simple—but that's not to say simplified. The mouth-filling, three dimensional experience provided by wines from ages-old Grüner Veltliner and Riesling grapes is not limited to flavors and textures; it also incorporates characteristics purposefully grown in the terraced vineyards, commonly at a density of 3,000 vines per acre. To enjoy the wine of Domäne Wachau is to take the history into yourself—and it is a delicious, if not exhilarating experience. PHOTO: DAN VOGEL PHOTO: DAN VOGEL Our panel convened at the appropriately titled Latitude 48 in Whitefish, Montana. Given that Vienna, Austria literally lies at the 48th parallel, half a world away, we live, work and play in a similar climate. Cheers to the 48th! Our Panel from bottom to top: Jessica Dodd, CSW, Sales Representative for George's Distributing of Montana; Kaleigh Brook Vrapi, CMS Level III (candidate) and owner of When in Rome restaurant, Bigfork, MT; Travis Manning, CMS Level I and Regional Manager for Glacier Restaurant Group Inc. Whitefish, MT; Dan Vogel, CMS Level II & CSW, Food & Beverage Director, Lake McDonald Lodge, Glacier National Park. OUR PANEL VINEA WACHAU WINE CLASSIFICATIONS Governing this twelve mile stretch of the River Danube is Vinea Wachau, the collective body that monitors the rigid quality standards of the Wachau region. Vinea Wachau allows very little technology to enhance their wines. Vehemently pure, this code embraces wine-growing as it was essentially a century ago: no anything, outside of human hands to care for and craft the vines and fruit. While it is tempting to combine the regulations and classifications of Germany with Austria, it is more accurate to compare them with the Alsace region of France. Here are the quality classifications unique to Vinea Wachau. Steinfeder: Not exported, these wines are the lightest clas- sification and are consumed almost entirely within Austria. Federspiel: Named after a local falcon, these wine require a must weight of 17degree KMW and a maximum of 12.5% alcohol by volume. They are considered strong wines with generous character. Smaragd: Named after an emerald lizard that lives in the Wachau vineyards, these are the most coveted of all Wachau wines. With a minimum of 12.5% alcohol by vol- ume the wines are generally not sweet but exhibit a rich body in both weight and flavor.