Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/580744
116 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015 Josh: That was Dr. Walsh's call and what did it for me to be OK with Germany was that laser-like acid mineral thing that you're left with. There's a ripeness, weight, glycerin, alcohol, it's a pleasure to taste wines like this. Conclusion: 2012, German, Saar, $60–65. The reveal: Kofererhof Riesling 2012, Alto Adige ($39.99, Skurnik). # 1 0 Josh: This one was a return to the middle after drinking three wines that really sang a little. Pretty lean, reduced, some mineral and some peach fruit. Conclusion: 2013, entry-level producer in Kamptal or Kremstal, $25. Mike: We're going to say the exact same thing. At least it has some mouthwatering [quality]. The reveal: Stadt Krems Grillenparz Kremstal Reserve 2013, Krems ($40, Winebow). # 1 1 Josh: Everything is either drying out or decomposing or bruised or mealy . . . really great acidity, complex minerality, but we feel there is some devel- opment of the wine here, just a smidge of RS to combat that austerity from the high acidity, with some age on it. Conclusion: 2008, Kabinett, Mosel, $45. Mike: This is a tough one; we're going back and forth with it. I'd say, kneejerk, Alsace but upon further tasting, especially since there's a red-fruited flavor in this wine, which makes me think it's German. There's minerality for sure and that's where we're getting confused, but it's a last minute thought because of the red fruit flavor I get. Conclusion: 2009, Rheingau, $60. The reveal: Pfister Riesling Grand Cru Engelberg AOC, 2007, Alsace ($48, Vintage 59 Imports) # 1 2 Josh: Tremendous amount of free sulphur in this wine. Maybe some time down the road it will be a more pleasant wine to drink, but it still has to come together Conclusion: Spätlase from Mosel, $40. Mike: I'm done! Spät Mosel 2013. $30. The reveal: Reinhold Haart Riesling Kabinett, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, 2011, Mosel ($50, Rudi Wiest). # 1 3 Mike: Dude, this is very odd wine. It has this really influenced oak quality to the wine. But, it has orchard fruit, good acidity good flintiness, ripeness, alcohol. Conclusion: Alsace, 2013 from a Grand Cru site, $70. Josh: There's a little more decomposi- tion of the fruit in the wine, which puts us in an older space. It almost starts to decompose into a sesame/mushroom, almost like a woodiness to the wine. What's happening to the fruit is almost creamy now; it does have acidity but not screaming. Conclusion: 2008, Alsace Grand Cru, $60. The reveal: Ostertag Riesling Grand Cru Muenchberg 2010, Alsace ($58, Kermit Lynch). # 1 4 Josh: I have reticent, retrained, austere, taut, a little pink bubble gum, really high acid, not Alsace. It's not a badly made wine and it's not insipid—it's just incredibly tightly wound right now. I just think we're calling it Austrian because we don't want to call it German. Conclusion: 2014, Kremstel, $28. Mike: I think it's the hardest wine we've tasted to try to figure out where it came from. It's devoid of character . . . we're oscillating back and for th between Austria and Germany. Conclusion: 2013, Rheinheissen, $30. The reveal: Fred Loimer Heilegenstein Reserve 2013, Kamptal ($95, Winebow). At this point the score was tied and the teams entered into a tiebreaker. Tie-breaker #1 Josh: We're going to call it because it has really intense liquid minerals and there are very few places in the world where you achieve this kind of ripeness with taut acid- ity. I think this wine has a long life ahead of it. Conclusion: 2012, Austrian Smaragd, Wachau, $65–$70. Mike: I'm just going to play off you. What vintage did you say? 2012? Well, it's not 2011 because that was hot. Dude, I'm going to say '12, too, because I want another [tie-breaker], $80. The reveal: Rudi Pichler Kirchweg Smaragd 2013, Wachau ($75, Winebow). Tie-breaker #2 For tie-breaker No. 2, the teams wrote down their guesses and submitted them to the moderator. After ten minutes and three glass fills, the reveal. Josh: We said Mosel Halbtrocken 2014. Mike: We said Mosel Kabinett Trocken 2013. The reveal: Vols Wiltinger Kupp Kabinett 2013, Saar ($29, Skurnick). In the end, there was no better team. Mike said, "That was much more intense than normal. I'm exhausted. I want to go to bed. We should stalemate it. And then we need a rematch." "Do you know what the pay-for-view ratings for this will be?" Josh asked. Kofererhof Riesling 2012, Alto Adige ($39.99 Skurnik) Charles Baur Cuvée Charles Riesling 2011, Alsace ($21, VOS Selections) Tegernseerhof Riesling Loibenberg, 2012 Wachau ($34, Artisanal Cellars) Best in Show (based on numerical scores):