The SOMM Journal

October / November 2015

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110 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015 Somm Da�e with a DISH 1: Appetizer sampler of tab- bouleh, baba ghannouj, hummus WINE 1: Tablas Creek Vineyard 2013 Côtes de Tablas Blanc This wine is a blend of four estate- grown white Rhône varietals: Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne and Roussanne. In the company of the creamy spreads—the hummus and baba ghannouj—the floral aromatics and the stone fruit flavors of peaches and apricots were enhanced. The earth flavors also structured the wine, giving a slight hint of welcome bitter- ness on the finish, along with its inher- ent hint of mint, which cleaned the pal- ate after each creamy bite. The finish opened up, toning down the acidity for a refreshing and appealing pairing. DISH 2: Falafel WINE 2: Château Margüi 2014 "Perle de Margüi" Rosé, Coteaux Varois en Provence The festive and subtle ripe wild straw- berry flavors dominate this Provençal rosé that's a gorgeous shade of pale pink. A dose of Rolle (the French name for the Vermentino grape) adds a watermelon flavor that lifts the deep- fried falafel magically, highlighting the wonderful herbs and spices in the dish. The wine's lovely medium-bodied texture, along with its dryness, seems like almost the perfect match to the saltiness and crunchiness of the fried chickpea croquettes. DISH 3: Saffron-scented rice with grilled vegetables WINE 3: Vietti 2011 Nebbiolo Perbacco Langhe, the subregion of Piedmont in the hills north and south of the city of Alba, is the home of this baby Barolo. This silky aromatic red wine by top producer Vietti smells of lovely vio- lets and shows flavors of bright Bing cherries with aromas of anise. As rice dishes are commonly consumed in Northern Italy, it was no surprise that the earthy savory rice softened out the wine, yet accented the fruitiness. The moderately salty rice helped round off the wine's youthful tannins and moder- ate natural acidity, welcoming each sip after a bit of the starchy dish. The lamb that rested on the dish became too earthy with the wine and we reserved it for a taste of the Syrah. This is likely a great wine for a classic paella dish. DISH 4: Chicken chawarma WINE 4: Dominique Laurent 2003 Nuits-Saint-Georges "Vieilles Vignes N° 1" This wine presented musky raspberry, a hint of coffee and nutty oak on the nose. In this vintage of the heat wave, many of the wines have a raisiny fea- ture, as does this Burgundy, with a color tinged with brownish-orange. The charring of the chicken and the smoki- ness minimized the hints of leather and earth in the wine, brightening it up a bit. The mineral-driven flavors were moderately complex and had a lovely restrained sweetness which gave the chicken, marinated in onion and spices, a freshness and lift that worked nicely. DISH 5: Grilled beef kebob WINE 5: Château La Louvière 2000 Pessac-Léognan, Graves This brick red vintage Bordeaux has a super aromatic nose of cedar box, leather and savory that reminds us of soy. It has good grip and marked flavors of Bing cherries and cassis, although most of the fruit has given way to licorice, sage, and tobacco from this vintage, which Hermann calls "a great one, after a series of unexciting years." The grilled beef is enhanced by the fruit flavors of the wine, which seems to work right into each bite, lifting the earthiness of the beef. Alternatively, the meat itself also mellows out the earth in the wine, which still feels youthful. Hermann is only now starting to open this vintage, and enjoying it enormously. DISH 6: Lamb and beef kafta: grilled minced lamb and beef with parsley, onions and tomatoes WINE 6: Jaffurs 2012 Santa Barbara County Syrah This Syrah is blended with small amounts of Petite Sirah, Mourvédre, Grenache and a bit of Viognier to create a structured, aromatic and moderately complex deep red wine. The bright cherry, wild berry and violet aromatics call out for a meat pairing, and this lamb and beef kafta—ground meats with spices grilled on a stick—are flattered by the wine. The depth and underlying espresso and pepper fla- vors get muted a bit by the dish so that neither overpowers the other. While the wine is certain to mellow with a bit of time, the brightness now is a lift to the lamb, edging out the earthy flavors with round pleasant flavors of spices and mild beef.

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