Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/580744
{ SOMMjournal.com } 107 than it is in places such as Bordeaux and Burgundy, even Napa. The 2010 growing season in Mendoza was much like 2013 in that the average temperature was cooler and "beautiful tannin texture developed along with fresh fruit flavors," said Fernández. We tasted three 2010s from Doña Paula, one 2013 and two stellar 2012 Napa Malbecs from Trinchero. Fernández joined Doña Paula about a year ago and before that he worked at Mendoza's Bodega Norton, Paul Hobbs (in Napa, Sonoma and Argentina) and at Finca Decero, the Argentine sister winery of Cuvaison. "From our single vineyards [in Mendoza], we have more calcareous soil components and we spot-pick from the best parcels, from which we make our Selección de Bodega." During the luncheon, Fernández and Monticelli exhibited a clear camaraderie and joy talking about Malbec. Agreeing with Fernández about careful picking, Monticelli added that, "It's about the soil with Malbec—it needs to be stressed. If we let it go, we'd be getting 12 tons to the acre. In our Haystack and Cloud's Nest vineyards in Napa, where we do a vineyard designate from each property, we drop 60 to 70 percent of our fruit—half when it's green and again during vérsaison. It needs that mountain climate [as in Argentina] with rocky well-drained soil and enough stress so the berries don't get too big or too tight—it takes a whole lot of canopy management and crop thinning. It's like a child that wants to grow and grow and produce, but you have to restrain it," said Monticelli. The buyers present were as excited as the winemakers to talk about the evolution of Malbec. "Ten to 15 years ago I couldn't find a Malbec that I liked," said Les Tso, Wine Buyer for Le Cheval a French-Asian restaurant with locations in Oakland and Walnut Creek, CA. "The expor t markets weren't ready for it 20 years ago, but there's been a global shift and better wines are pouring in now." "It's nearly impossible to find a bad wine today," said Peter Steiner, Wine Director and Sommelier at Sens Restaurant in San Francisco. "Many of them are super clean and well made—almost too clean." "Malbec is great for Zin lovers," pointed out Cara Patricia, sommelier-at-large, who has plans to open a retail boutique. "They want more control on alcohol and ageability—there's that black, blue fruit and sweet oak components, and they are quite drinkable." "We have a culture that loves Malbec," said Tamara Forward, Sommelier at Michael Mina San Francisco. "That extracted, big, juicy, rich texture, which coats your mouth. People who love Napa Cabs love these wines because you don't have to wait as long as a Napa Cab to drink them. They have great color too," which she says is a big plus when it comes consumers who seek that visual representation of what they might expect—big, juicy and rich. Salt House's salty and savory duck confit and spring veg- etables, prepared with mushrooms and a bacon jus, provided a stellar pairing with the spicy, mineral-driven Doña Paula 2010 Selección de Bodega Malbec from Mendoza. SECOND STOP: LOS ANGELES story by Karen Moneymaker / photos by Cal Bingham As the Malbec match-up meandered south to Los Angeles, the discussion on Napa Malbec vs. Mendoza Malbec became more about the similarities than the differences. To be hon- est, we think some of this has to do with the like-mindedness of the two winemakers in tow. While meeting at Downtown Los Angeles's Faith & Flower, a handful of wine professionals were invited to taste, compare and contrast the Doña Paula and Trinchero Napa Valley wines and to query the winemakers. "The highlight of the tasting for me was tasting the differ- ences between each single-parcel wine from Doña Paula," noted Dana Farner, a personal sommelier/wine advisor. "I visited the vineyards being researched in 2011 and was impressed then and now with their work in defining the terroir of Mendoza." Trinchero Napa Valley's Head Winemaker Mario Monticelli pours a palate-cleansing glass of Trinchero 2014 Mary's Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc for personal sommelier/wine advisor Dana Farner and Alexis Kozack, General Manager of Animal in Los Angeles.