Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/566135
78 / the tasting panel / september 2015 IN THE MID-20TH CENTURY, noted viticulturalists touted Margaret River, on the far southwestern tip of the Australian continent, as a potentially great wine region, noting its similarity to Bordeaux in climate. In 1967, Dr. Tom Cullity planted the first vines at Vasse Felix, establishing the first vineyard and winery in the region. The name, meaning "Lucky Vasse," refers to Thomas Timothée Vasse, a helmsman thrown overboard from a French exploring ship in 1801 and who, as legend has it, washed ashore and lived with the Aborigines. Today, Margaret River produces only a tiny fraction of Australia's wine output, but the wines have garnered acclaim worldwide for quality. Vasse Felix is still at the forefront in the region. The Heytesbury Cabernet-driven red blend and Heytesbury Chardonnay are its halo offerings; an elegant Premier range showcases Margaret River terroir; the approachable Filius tier offers more fruit-forward flavors. I recently tasted through some current and previous vintages with Chief Winemaker Virginia Willcock. The results speak for themselves. 92 Edi Simcˇicˇ 2009 Kolos, Goriška Brda, Slovenia ($140) Smooth and lush, ripe and juicy with plum, cassis and spice; lush and complex with balance and a long, seamless finish. SMALL VINEYARDS VALUE AND BY-THE-GLASS RECOMMENDATIONS 89 Altano 2013 Red, Douro DOC, Portugal ($9) A smooth-drinking Douro table wine from the Symington family with bright plum and spice; tangy and fresh, lively and long. Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz and Tinta Barocca. VINEYARD BRANDS 89 Momokawa Diamond Saké, Oregon ($13) One of several offerings from Oregon's SakéOne; silky and elegant with smooth texture, melon and mineral notes and lovely balance. SAKÉONE 91 Benvenuto de la Serna 2012 Malbec, Valle de Uco, Argentina ($19) Dark and deep with concentrated blueberry and ripe, lush, juicy style; tangy, crisp and long. CANNON WINES 92 Michele Chiarlo 2014 Nivole Moscato d'Asti, Italy ($15/375 ml.) It's almost impossible not to be enchanted by this stuff; foamy and sweet with smooth, ripe apple and apricot flavors. An ideal aperitif or dessert wine. KOBRAND 88 RDLR The Magician 2013 White Blend, California ($11) Smooth, juicy and a bit sweet with fresh, lush flavors; clean, bright and long. ROW ELEVEN WINE COMPANY 89 MacMurray Estate Vineyards 2013 Pinot Noir, Central Coast ($18) The estate once owned by actor Fred MacMurray has expanded its "Pinot Noir journey" well beyond the original MacMurray Ranch in Sonoma's Russian River Valley; this one is dark, ripe and juicy with black cherry, savory notes and tangy acidity. E&J GALLO BLUE REVIEWS 91 Vasse Felix 2013 Filius Chardonnay, Margaret River, Australia ($27) Silky textues with lively, crisp citrus tones; modern in style with a long and lifted finish. 93 Vasse Felix 2013 Chardonnay, Margaret River, Australia ($43) Shows elegance and lovely depth; complex and rich with great structure and finesse; rich, restrained and totally balanced. 95 Vasse Felix 2013 Heytesbury Chardonnay, Margaret River, Australia ($65) Rich and juicy, yet poised and structured with great finesse; Burgundian and complex with stunning depth; silky and stunning. This and two previous vintages of the same wine are the highest-rated Australian Chardonnays I have ever tasted. 88 Vasse Felix 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River, Australia ($27) Bright and spicy nose; dark, juicy and fresh with spice and juicy plum; smooth and racy, long and crisp. 13% Malbec, 1% Petit Verdot. 93 Vasse Felix 2012 Heytesbury, Margaret River ($93) Velvety and elegant but backed by juicy acidity and rich plum, black raspberry and spice; bright tannins, fresh and balanced; generous and long. 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Malbec, 7% Petit Verdot. 93 Vasse Felix 2010 Heytesbury, Margaret River ($93) This older vintage is still available. Great depth, with spice, vibrant fruit, tight tannins and lovely structure; fresh and balanced finish. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petit Verdot, 10% Malbec. NEGOCIANTS USA Vasse Felix: Margaret River Pioneer