The Tasting Panel magazine

September 2015

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september 2015  /  the tasting panel  /  125 dishes with a Lytton Springs Zinfandel: The jammy, black- peppery spiced aromas matched well with peppercorn flavor in the dishes. Yue (Guangdong) cuisine The Cantonese are well known for consuming almost anything that moves. This versatile attitude toward food makes Guangdong cuisine one of the easiest Chinese cuisines to pair with wine. The cuisine itself also speaks for this wine-friendly attitude: Guangdong cuisine does not use much spice, but rather focuses on bringing out the natural flavor of vegetables and meats. The same level of versatile attitude can be found in California Riesling, which makes it a good partner for many Guangdong dishes. Generally speaking, the palate in this region is subtle and delicate; it's probably worth avoiding very intensely perfumed varieties. Min (Fujian) cuisine Influenced by its coastal position and mountainous terrain, Fujian cuisine is distinguished for its choice seafood, beautiful color and the magical taste of sweet, sour, salty and savory. The cuisine is known to be light but flavorful, savory, soft and tender, with particular emphasis on umami taste. As the blending varietals (Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre) often come from different regions with their own climate and terroir, this versatile blend will pair well with complex flavors. Furthermore, its tannin is moderated enough so that it doesn't taste bitter in relation to sweet, sour or salty sauces, yet there is enough tannin to digest meat fat. Xiang (Hunan) cuisine Similar to Sichuan cuisine, Hunan cuisine is also well known for its hot spicy flavor, fresh aroma and deep color. Besides being spicy, Hunan cuisine, especially western Hunan, also emphasizes sourness and savor. Amplified by plush, mouthwatering, almost sweet, dense and silken-textured flavors, Viognier from California's Central Coast can be a good balance for the spicy and sour flavor of Hunan cuisine. The use of douchi—a type of fermented black soybean paste—in this cuisine is a wild card for wine pairing: I often find that the meaty and fruity Syrah from Paso Robles would enhance, rather than fight, the hot spices of douchi. PAIRING CHINESE CUISINES WITH CALIFORNIA WINES by Dong Li Buddha Jumps Over the Wall, one of the most prestigious dishes of Fujian cuisine, is a perfect illustration of the Chinese food-wine pairing maze—finding a wine that matches for a dish with 20-plus ingredients can be a nightmare for any sommelier at work.

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