The SOMM Journal

August / September 2015

Issue link:

Contents of this Issue


Page 77 of 132

{ }  77 { italy } ALBEISA—THE UNIONE PRODUTTORI Vini Albesi—celebrated the 20th anniver- sary of Nebbiolo Prima by bringing more than 100 wine writers from all over the world to Alba between May 10 and 15. Over the course of the week, these journal- ists blindly assessed nearly 500 new-release Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero DOCG wines from more than 250 producers. On center stage were the Barolos from 2011, a vintage close to my heart since I worked harvest there that fall. I'll never forget the heat that swept through the vil - lages in late September and early October; we felt as if we had been sent to Africa to pick grapes. The harvest was unconvention - ally early, but that didn't mean a shorter growth cycle for the vine. A warm spring had brought budbreak two weeks early and plenty of rainfall and mild mid-summer tem - peratures helped sustain balance in the vines. Categorically, the Barolos from the La Morra and Barolo villages show the most balance. While the vintage reveals the riper, spicier side of La Morra, some wines still maintain their fresh herbal and rose qualities. Standout producers include Mauro Veglio (Arborina), Alessandro Veglio (Gattera), Revello, Ciabot Berton and Serradenari. Wines from the Barolo village deliver dried red and black fruit, smoke, dank forest and a bold structure. Noteworthy producers include Marengo (Bricco delle Viole), Burlotto (Cannubi), Borgogno (Cannubi Boschis), Fenocchio (Castellero), Vajra and Rinaldi. The Barolos from Castiglione Falletto express juicy red fruit with a musky, wet for - est quality. The best examples come from Roccheviberti (Roche di Castiglione), Paolo Scavino (Bric del Fiasc), Tenuta Montanello, and Brovia. Monforte d'Alba Barolos come forward with the most power : roasted earth, cocoa, confiture and assertive tannins. While some results still seem a bit green, the best wines show a synthesis of plump fruit and ripe tan - nins. Mauro Veglio (Casteletto), Conterno Fantino (Sori Ginestra), Giovanni Manzone (Gramolere) and Gianfranco Alessandria produced exceptional 2011s. From Serralunga d'Alba, the best 2011 Barolos integrate smoke and rose with cherry conserve and lush tannins. Notable wines come from Riverdito Michele (Badarina), Vajra (Baudana), Ca' Rome' (Cerretta), Pio Cesare (Ornato) and Germano Ettore. The Barbarescos from 2012 are out - standing. Beautifully expressing their respective crus, the wines display straw- berry, black cherry, rose, mint, confec- tion, roasted almonds and licorice. Their tightly-wound tannins and brisk acidity will keep them going for the long haul. Remarkable wines come from Giordano (Montestefano), Lequio Ugo (Gallina), Col dei Venti (Tufoblù), Pertinace (Nervo), Socré, Cascina Bruciata, Rivetti Massimo and Rivella Silvia. Roero shows a mixed bag in terms of style and quality in 2012. But superior pro - ducers, who manage to sustain the pretty rose character and luxurious texture that typify Roero so well (without overstated oak), include Careglio, Ca' Rossa, and Cornarea. Stellar wines from the Roero Riservas of the 2011 vintage were: Malvirà (Trinita) and Monchiero Carbone (Printi). Both show remarkable length, balance and potential, despite the temperature particu - larities of that spring and fall. Wines from more than 250 producers were represented at Nebbiolo Prima. NEBBIOLO PRIMA SHOWCASES 2011 BAROLOS AND MORE story and photos by Marcella Newhouse Prestige in Piemonte

Articles in this issue

Links on this page

Archives of this issue

view archives of The SOMM Journal - August / September 2015