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sleek wooden ice bucket to decorative coiling sink faucets of oxidized metal, which some believe restores vitality to the water. Safely tucked in at night, I listened to howler monkeys, ocean waves and falling rain before dri&ing o$ to a deep sleep. In the morning, a sta$ person de- livered a pot of organic, fair trade co$ee through my "co$ee window." Dry Forest Critters Bismar Lopez, the ecolodge's tour di- rector, gave me a private truck tour of the grounds. Having grown up in a rural area about an hour from Morgan's Rock, Lopez knows his jungle plants and is skilled at spotting animals. As we bumped along narrow dirt tracks, we stopped to watch monkeys, a toucan and a sloth. #e Spanish word for sloth is perezosa, which also means "lazy." But I think relaxed is a better word. #is female glided from one branch to another like an arboreal yogini, her baby clinging to her belly. Turtle season is August through De- cember, and the resort posts round- the-clock guards to protect the giant sea turtles that spawn and hatch on its private beach. On a designated night (which I sadly just missed), the babies are escorted into the sea. Mostly they are olive ridley sea turtles, which weigh up to 90 pounds and can live 60 years. Giant leatherbacks also make occasion- al appearances. Eco Measures In addition to the saltwater pool, Mor- gan's Rock's long list of eco measures in- cludes gray water irrigation, recycling, composting and solar water heating. #e property's organic farm supplies approximately 60 percent of the restau- rant's food, including meat and sustain- ably farmed seafood. #e cooks are well versed in special diets, with at least four vegetarian choices at each meal. One of the cooks, Socorro Martinez, assured me that with advance notice she can ac- commodate most dietary preferences. About 95 percent of the workers are locals, including senior management. Since the property is at least an hour from town and most workers lack cars, many live on-site in worker housing. Morgan's Rock cultivates ties to the local community by supporting schools in nearby rural areas and promoting cra&s and pottery by local artists. Although I'm never completely com- fortable being treated like a queen in developing countries, the many sustain- ability measures and local e$orts made me feel good about Morgan's Rock. I realized the workers who prepared my meals and showed me the sights couldn't a$ord a stay at the ecolodge where they work, but they have jobs and report being fairly compensated, and I think I can safely say that they and the land crabs, sloths and monkeys are all happy the Ponçon family chose an ecolodge over a golf course. SURFING SAN JUAN DEL SUR M any surfers come to southwest Nicaragua to take advantage of o$shore winds. #e town of San Juan Del Sur (SJDS), a half-hour south of Morgan's Rock, o$ers lodging, surf lessons and casual beachside dining. If you're an experienced rider or would like to be, consider a vacation at ChicaBrava Surf Camp (www. chicabrava.com/). #is woman-owned and operated surf school hosts weeklong intensives for beginners and those who want to improve their skills. Couples might prefer to stay at Casa del Soul, a friendly hideaway on the hillside above SJDS with stunning ocean views. #e best restaurant in town, El Colibri, o$ers Mediterra- nean-inspired food with vegetarian options. IF YOU GO To visit Morgan's Rock or San Juan Del Sur, %y into Managua. Expect to pay approximately $50 for shuttle service to SJDS. If %ights force an overnight stay in Managua, Hotel El Camino Real has a free airport shuttle and a nice pool. #e lobby and restaurant are open- air, and 15 bungalows are more screen than wall, allowing in the sounds and smells of the jungle. To get to your bun- galow, expect to walk the equivalent of three or four city blocks up dirt trails and across a long suspension bridge (which you can avoid if you're squea- mish about heights). I immediately fell in love with my bungalow. Surrounded by a wall of volcanic rock, my ample private deck had a table and chairs plus a full-sized hanging daybed overlooking the mile- long private beach below. Inside fea- tured a king-sized bed, sofa bed, desk and open area for yoga. Every detail was gorgeously designed, from the june/july 2015 29