The Tasting Panel magazine

June 2015

Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/518118

Contents of this Issue

Navigation

Page 79 of 136

june 2015  /  the tasting panel  /  79 At Franklin, Dennis Lofland, Director of Beverage for Mandalay Bay and Delano, carefully crafts every cocktail, and passes the techniques on to the wait staff. Michael Mina's former American Fish has been completely transformed into his new Bardot Brasserie, keeping the open kitchen, but using Belle Époque menus from some of the best Parisian restau- rants to inspire Chef Mina and Executive Chef Josh Smith to create flavorful interpretations that bring back an elegantly nostalgic slice of the City of Light. Some of the most innovative cocktails in Las Vegas can be found at Sage Restaurant, where Craig Schoettler, ARIA's Property Mixologist, has assembled an array of rare spirits to create unique cocktails based upon his culinary background. PHOTO COUTESY OF MGM RESORTS INTERNATIONAL PHOTO COUTESY OF MGM RESORTS INTERNATIONAL PHOTO: MONA SHIELD PAYNE the way they shake the cocktails, put ice in the glass and pour the drink, so you're going to get the same cocktail and service at Bound as at Salvatore at FIFTY in 50 St. James or Salvatore at Playboy at the Playboy Club in London. He realizes people drink with their eyes, so he wants to make a beautiful looking cocktail—every time." In addition, Bound stocks high-roller pours such as Johnnie Walker & Sons Odyssey and Frapin Cuvée 1888 in its "Elite" Cognac and whisky cabinet. Just up the stairs from The Cromwell's casino is Giada, the gourmet Italian personification of Emmy-award winning chef Giada de Laurentis, who has taken branding to a new level. Her name and initials are everywhere—even written in paprika on the minestrone—yet every dish is a flavorful masterpiece and showcases her penchant for excellence; no wonder the place is always packed. The presence of another powerful Italian personality can be found at Martorano's at Paris Hotel & Casino, where the tattooed, bald-headed hulk in the kitchen happens to be DJ/ chef Steve Martorano. But don't call him a chef, because he'll deny it. "I'm just a neighborhood guy who loves to cook," he booms in his thick Philadelphia accent. And cook he does, serving up huge portions of fried calamari with sweet and spicy chili sauce, a pork chop and peppers that can easily feed two and, for dessert, a scoop of vanilla ice cream sandwiched between two waffles and topped with whipped cream and maple syrup. Retro movies and rock n'roll music add to the ambiance. At nearby Bally's, I discovered the welcomed return of one of the most elegant Champagne buffets in Las Vegas, Sterling Brunch at BLT Steak, where Perrier-Jouët flows like water, the American sturgeon caviar is non-stop and this high-profile feast is proof that the 99-cent binge buffet is passé. These are affluent times and this buffet proves it, with self-serve morsels that include lobster tail, prime rib and sushi, enhanced with additional hot entrees ordered from the kitchen. Over at Mandalay Bay, the serenely quiet non-gaming oasis of Delano (formerly THEhotel) is anchored by Franklin (as in Franklin Delano Roosevelt) lounge, where the back bar is home to some of the rarest spirits in Las Vegas. Think The Macallan 1969, Glen Moray 1987, Sipsmith London Dry Gin, Amrut Fusion from India and Clyde May's Whiskey. "Plus we've got 32 craft beers and 22 wines that are only available by the glass in this city, right here," says Dennis Lofland, Director of Beverage for Mandalay Bay and Delano. "What we focus on in Delano is this in-the-know service mentality. It's not something that's written on the menu or that you're going to see on the TV in your room. It's what our bartenders and servers are able to tell you about the stories behind everything we're doing here"—like their exclusive barrel-aged Hyde Manhattan, the sample pours the mixolo- gists offer to interested customers and the "conversation cards" that come with every cocktail, with questions like, "If you could be in the Olympics, which sport would you try to medal in?" Appropriately, every new restaurant and cocktail lounge I visited turned out to be a gold medal winner.

Articles in this issue

Archives of this issue

view archives of The Tasting Panel magazine - June 2015