Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/518118
june 2015 / the tasting panel / 57 "We all agreed the beverage menu should primarily reflect the cuisine while maintain- ing a summer and playful theme," says Allred. "We want our cocktails, in particular, to be elevated, but also approachable enough to have fun." One libation that decidedly fits the bill is the whimsical and quaffable Handlebars, with Wild Turkey Rye, Carpano Antica and Campari. The drink is garnished with a mustache- shaped fruit leather, made by reducing applesauce, sugar, citrus and Campari; baking the mixture until it is firm; and then molding it to resemble the throwback facial hair evocative of modern speakeasy barkeeps. "It seemed fitting given the beard trend that's so alive and well, particularly among those partial to classic cocktails," admits Allred, who's toying with other leathers made with Maraschino liqueur and Sambuca. Most popular on the roof are the Front Porch—which mixes Banks Rum with peach, passion fruit, lemon and just a drop or two of a tincture made from the legendarily spicy ghost pepper—and the Draftarinha—a Mojito riff which gets its citrus tones from lime oil. Made by expressing the zest of a lime, the concentrated oil adds an amazing accent to the classic Cuban refresher. A daily punch allows bartenders to play around with fun spirits and cordials, bubbles, juice, spice and a sweetener—mandarin, elderflower and melon are poised to be popular additions this season. The nine or so cocktails are joined on the menu by a selection of Japanese and craft beers, wine, saké and playful Asian nibbles. Robata skewers grill up options like chicken thighs, pork belly or prawns; Osaka Wings are drenched in a sweet chili garlic sauce; and a Tokyo Dog fills a brioche roll with house-made chicken and pork belly sausage, topped with cabbage, Dijon mustard, Japanese mayo and served alongside chips dusted with nori salt. Of course, no poolside bar would be complete without those aforementioned crowd- pleasing frozen treats. At DNV, they take the form of slushies and the Chou Chou. For the latter, staff siphons Koloa Dark Rum, Varnelli Italian Coffee Liqueur, house espresso and tonic made with cinchona bark, lemongrass, citrus, salt and sugar into Popsicle bags and freezes them overnight. It's served with a napkin and a Collins glass to hold it in between licks, and since the push pop is wrapped in plastic, guests don't have to worry about a melting mess. A caffeine fix is an added benefit. "We don't have true coffee service on the roof, so this can satisfy those cravings," notes Allred. "Also, summers are hot, popsicles are cold, and these popsicles have alcohol in them." Daily changing slush- ies are dispensed from rotating machines, and serve as a fan in a glass for summertime rooftop revelers; the menu touts them as "always served cold and never weak." There are certainly logistical challenges to running a successful rooftop bar, where space is at a minimum and tools and supplies are limited as well. Draft cocktails and slushies are two ways that DNV staff uses to maintain the integrity of a cocktail program outside—organization and advanced prep are two others. "A lot of our attention to detail happens behind the scenes by way of batching and preparing mise en place," explains Allred. "That way we can speedily execute our drinks and give awesome service to the multitudes of people who come up here to have fun." At The Donovan from Kimpton Hotels in Washington D.C., food from the property's restaurant, Zentan, is paired with the Handlebars cocktail, featured on the DNV Rooftop menu. The libation is made with Wild Turkey Rye, Carpano Antica and Campari and garnished with a mustache- shaped fruit leather. Since DNV Rooftop doesn't have coffee service, Chou Chou helps to satisfy those cravings.