The Tasting Panel magazine

December 2011

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Beverly Hills and Wolfgang Puck's Los Angeles–based Far East forays: stalwart Chinois on Main and the new, modern- ist WP24. In fact, Demetriades hired a longtime Mr. Chow bartender to run the Red Lantern cocktail program. While Red Lantern will occupy the downstairs of the redesigned building, another concept, Jimmy's, will hold court upstairs. Opening in March, Jimmy's will offer Greek/Mediterranean seafood. The inspiration? New York City's Milos—known for its exquisite standards in Greek cuisine. Tequila Haven On a whim, Joanie and Dan Schaller decided to open a Mexican restaurant in Mammoth Lakes. The whim paid off: Today, Roberto's is the only place that customers consider when it comes to this style of cooking or the mere mention of a Margarita. With 26 years behind them now, the Schallers, who turned a burger joint into a multi-level restaurant and bar, are enjoying an ever-increasing following. "People used to have to wait in the snow to get in," explains Schaller, who is showing me around the original structure within the thrice-remodeled building. "We had to keep adding space. They're still waiting to get in, but at least we can keep them warm." Chip Ermish is Director of Wine at Rafters. as he pours me a glass of Villa Maria New Zealand Riesling. "Not only am I changing the wine-by-the-glass offerings every week, I am exposing Mammoth guests to an entirely new palate: Vermentino from Lodi, Macabeo from Spain and one of my new favor- ites, Jed Steele Cab Franc Rosé from Lake County. You can hook me up to that intravenously, I like it so much. We pride ourselves on wines no one else in town is serving." Demetriades and I are talking about his plans and he suddenly says, "Follow me." We walk out the door of Rafters and several yards down to Red Lantern, his nod to such creative Asian food pioneers as Mr. Chow in At Roberto's, Joanie Schaller shows us the Patrón flight, which offers pours of the brand's three tequilas and its XO Café coffee liqueur for a reasonable $30. "Our goal is to carry quality tequila," Schaller insists, "and Patrón was with us from the beginning; we carry all their products. It suits us!" Frenchman at the Helm The most secluded dining room is in Mammoth's backwoods. With its exclusive cabins on the shores of Twin Lakes, Lakefront at the Tamarack Lodge boasts a romantic dining destination, presided over for the last 16 years by the much-acclaimed French chef Frédéric Pierrel. Although there's plenty to like, the seafood menu alone sets Why is a Frenchman wearing an Ireland rugby shirt? As of press time, the effervescent Frédéric Pierrel, Chef de Cuisine at Lakefront at the Tamarack Lodge, was "rooting for a winning team for the World Cup." 100 / the tasting panel / december 201 1 Lakefront apart, with an ever-changing selection of 25 to 30 different fish highlighted on the menu, a global selection from far-flung places such as Greece and Australia, as well as locally-caught catches of the day. But sit down with Pierrel for more than 15 minutes, and the subject will turn to his other, non-fish loves: dirt biking, rugby and mushroom hunting.

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