The SOMM Journal

April / May 2015

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W ith 16,000 winegrowers and over 320 Champagne houses in the Champagne region today, it is easy to get overwhelmed as a consumer, and even easier to get lost in the shuffle if you are a small grower producer. When the SOMM Journal and 15 of Southern California's brightest wine and restaurant talent descended upon Marvin in Los Angeles, our goal was to cut through the crowd and dive into one of the small récoltant- manipulant houses that is making waves on our side of the pond. Nestled in the Côte des Bar, the petite 30-hectare (74-acre) prop- erty of Château de Bligny has quite a few feathers in its hat. For starters, it is the only Champagne to enjoy the "Château" moniker, and this boutique property is the happy home to a miniscule, 0.8 hectare (2-acre) "Clos" co-planted with the six historical Champagne varieties: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, Petit Meslier, Arbane and Pinot Blanc. Also, 100% of its production is estate-owned and as a récoltant-manipulant, every one of its 25,000 cases is produced, aged and bottled at the Château. The result is a range of Champagnes that is very special and very geeky. At the table, amid sips and bites (see page 64 for tasting notes) con- versation turned to the sometimes challenging role Champagnes— particularly grower Champagnes—play in the restaurant and the guest dining experience. "Our guests love Champagne, but tend to know so little about it," explained Caroline Styne of AOC, Lucques and Tavern. "People are attached to branding, so getting them into grower Champagne is a matter of educating the guest and being there with them through the experience." Joy Cushing of Church and State shared her theory of why guests shy away from Champagne: "I think, often, people are intimidated by Champagne pricing, so they end up drinking cheap sparkling and they have a bad experience." Cushing continues, "I try to encourage my guests to start with a glass or half bottle. It is a wonderful way to start the evening." With stunners like the Château de Bligny Champagnes popping up on wine lists across the country, we are undoubtedly witnessing a shift in guest and consumer perception. For our crew at Marvin, the answer to the question, "Champagne?" A resounding, "Why, yes!" The City of Angels Takes On the Heavenly Château de Bligny Champagne Jeff Anderson, Beverage Director at Craft, and Caroline Styne, Partner and Wine Director of AOC/Lucques/Tavern, extoling the virtues of grower Champagne. The 18th-century Château de Bligny, as seen by Jared Hooper, Wine Director for Faith & Flower, and Kimmy Wade, Wine Buyer for Son of a Gun. Diego Ruiz de Porras, Sommelier at The Beverly Hills Hotel; Roberto Loppi, Sommelier at the Montage of Beverly Hills; and Szymon Piechaczek, Sommelier at Terranea Resort. Sean van Straatum, Sommelier at L'Ermitage tucks into the unconventional Château de Bligny NV Clos du Château "Cuvée 6 Cépages." BY KAREN MONEYMAKER PHOTOS BY CAL BINGHAM { SOMMjournal.com }  63

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