Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/490558
108 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } APRIL/MAY 2015 from the Pacific, providing a Region II climate. Alluvial terraces of silt and clay loams and rocky calcareous patches sit at 700 to 1,800-foot elevations. Turley Wine Cellars has had the interesting experience of farming Zinfandel, Paso Robles's heri- tage grape, in four different old vine sites: Pesenti Vineyard and Ueberroth Vineyard in the Paso Robles Willow Creek District, and Dusi Vineyard and Martinelli Vineyard in the Templeton Gap District. Karl Wicka, who manages the Turley program in Paso Robles, tells us: "The most meaningful contrast between Pesenti/Ueberroth and Dusi/Martinelli lies in the soil, since the temperature dif- ferences between the two regions are negligible. The Zinfandels from Ueberroth and Pesenti are derived from calcareous parent material, and tend to be higher in natural acidity, laced with minerality and a tighter mouthfeel. Dusi Zinfandel, which comes from alluvial soils with rounded cobbles originating from the nearby Salinas River, tends to be softer, more plush by comparison and is approachable sooner." Ridge Vineyards has an even lon- ger record of Zinfandels grown in the Templeton Gap District, particularly from the Benito Dusi Vineyard, located just east of Highway 101 in flatter, cobbled, loamy soil. Ridge Vice President of Winemaking Eric Baughter describes this as "the warmest region site in our portfolio . . . producing a delicious, early-drinking style of Zinfandel, with intense cherry fruit and elegant tannins." San Miguel District Located in the northwest section of the Paso Robles AVA, around the little community of San Miguel, the San Miguel District typifies warmer sections of the Paso Robles AVA with its Region III-IV climate, and grow- ing season diurnal swings as extreme as 35° Fahrenheit (whereas diurnal swings in the Templeton Gap, Willow Creek and Adelaida are typically between 20° and 30° Fahrenheit). In lower lying (580 to 1,600- foot elevations), moderately deep, alluvial sandy loams, winegrowing families such as Caparone Winery have been working with grapes like Zinfandel, Sangiovese, Aglianico and Nebbiolo over the past 35 years. Paso Robles Estrella District While located east of the San Miguel District, average growing season temperatures in the AVA defined by the Estrella River Basin see slightly cooler maritime influ- ence—classified as Region II—from both the Templeton Gap and air flowing all the way in from Salinas Valley to the north. Rolling plains and terraces between 800 and 1,800 feet are primarily alluvial and sandy loam, with rocky veins of alkaline calcareous base that surface in shallow topsoil at higher elevations. Growing sea- son temperatures swing as much as 35° to 40° between night and day, giving excellent phenolic content to reds. J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines has success- fully staked its entire Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon program in this terroir. Says J. Lohr Winemaker Steve Peck, "low organic matter in these soils is the key to reducing vigor and keeping berry size small, giving us dense, soft flavors, lower in pyrazine (green) flavors." Potential for flavorful yet softer mouth-feel is also why newer plant- ings of Petit Verdot—which can be exces- sive in tannin and acidity in most regions— are also showing great promise in the Paso Robles Estrella District, whereas Merlot can be on the softer, looser side. Paso Robles Geneseo District Just south of Highway 46 from the Paso Robles Estrella District, the Paso Robles Geneseo District is a lower lying region (740 to 1,300-foot elevation) influenced by the Huerhuero Creek Watershed, and is marked by grav- elly/silty/clay alluvial terraces with alkaline calcareous elements. Although climate falls on the warm side of Region III, Cabernet Sauvignon grown here can retain deep color, pungent spice-scented minerality, bright acidity, rich viscosity, and firm, black tea-like phenolics—epitomized by produc- ers such as Cass Winery, and cuvées going into crafty blends by Vina Robles. El Pomar District Sandwiched between the south end of the Paso Robles Geneseo District and the eastern edge of the Templeton Gap District, the El Pomar District is quickly emerging as an ideal ter- roir for red Bordeaux varieties; particularly Merlot and Cabernet Franc, which seem to retain deep color, bright fruit and acidity in the region's rolling hillsides (740 to 1,600 feet), although recent plantings of earlier ripening Cabernet Sauvignon clones are also showing great promise. Air flowing directly from the Templeton Gap furnishes a moderated Region II cli- mate, and alluvial clay loams are significantly influenced by alkaline calcareous sandstone and siltstone. J. Lohr's Steve Peck tells us, "We began planting Merlot and Cabernet Franc for our blending programs over a decade ago because El Pomar is typically a few degrees cooler than our home ranch in the Estrella District." Pomar Junction Vineyard & Winery co-owner Matt Merrill puts it this way: "The climate in El Pomar is not so cool that we get excess pyrazine, but not too hot where flavors are baked out . . . with our well drained Linne-Calodo soils, we achieve an ideal mouth-feel and lush fruit-forward character in our Bordeaux varietals and blends." Creston District While further to the east from the Templeton Gap, the Creston District rises up on a 2,000-foot plateau, with plantings on gentle hillsides and ter- races, in Nacimiento soil series consisting of well-drained sandy or clay loams, layered with calcareous shale and limestone. The climate is classified as Region III; although Chateau Margene's Owner/Winemaker Michael Mooney contends, "our own data shows that in some years we are as cool as the Templeton Gap." Merlots from properties like B & E Vineyard have a striking intensity and even more arrest- ing grip than Merlots from neighboring El Pomar District; and Cabernet Sauvignons by Chateau Margene and Parrish Family Vineyard are among the most elegantly composed in Paso Robles, while retaining the vivid pigmentation and phenolic con- centration typical of both sides of the AVA. San Juan Creek At the far northwest corner of the Paso Robles AVA, in the vicinity of the little town of Shandon, the San Juan Creek is a warmer climate AVA (Region II-IV) consisting of fairly high allu- vial clay, shale and sandstone bench lands (980 to 1,600-foot elevation). Quite a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, as well as specialty red table grapes have been planted on these heights since