Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/471637
74 / the tasting panel / march 2015 country, its unique terrain yields some of the most prized grapes in the world today, eight of which can be used to make Pisco (see graphic). The most common variety is Quebranta, a mutation of the strong, dark purple grapes that survived early voyages from Spain. This grape, along with the rest of the non-aromatic four, is considered to have a generally deep, full-bodied character. Their counter- parts are the aromatic grapes, which come from Italian vines. With higher levels of the chemical compound terpene in their green skins, these grapes produce a more floral, fragrant and feminine quality in Pisco—like the Muscat grape they're derived from. A grape's characteristics are best seen in the Pisco puro style, which is the distillation of a single variety. There are three styles of Pisco; one of them, mosto verde, can use any grape or blend, its distinction coming from a shortened fermentation. While mosto is usually fermented for about 14 days, for versions labeled mosto verde it is given only around 72 hours. This means there is significant sugar left over that hasn't converted to alcohol, creating an elegantly rich, more buttery, slightly sweeter Pisco, especially lovely with aromatic varieties. Because it takes nearly twice as many grapes to produce this kind of Pisco, it's also rarer and more expensive. The young wine that comes out of fermentation is distilled in alembic pot stills, the same grand copper appara- tuses used to make Cognac (a Peruvian clay-and-copper pot still called a falca is also still used by a handful of traditional Pisco producers). Some of it, however, never sees this step, instead being drunk in tandem with mature Pisco at the wild jaranas—celebrations at all stages of Pisco-making run deep in Peruvian culture. The Heart of Peru Pisco is considered the soul of Peru; ever since European powers conquered the indigenous Incans in the 1530s, there's been no separating the histories of country and spirit. Although Spain brought winemaking to the area, the native empire had already long been fermenting chicha, a corn beer to which spice and fruit are added. Applying the Incans' farming tools and methods to the care of their grape vines, the Spanish established a massive wine- producing region in their new land in a matter of decades. Eventually the region's wine grew so popular, it started rivaling Spain's own wine industry, and the Spanish crown banned its production. Pisco was born of Peruvian farmers' creativity in the face of now-useless vineyards: They began distilling the wine they were no longer allowed to export. The world's tipplers approved, placed large orders and Peru's botijas (clay vessels) of Pisco were loaded onto nearly every ship passing through the centralized port of Pisco on their way to North America. San Francisco notably went wild for the stuff in the 1800s, eventu- ally dedicating entire bars to Pisco cocktails—a true testament to its quality and versatility as a spirit. Prohibition ended that party, as it did so many par- ties, and without the American market, Pisco exports waned significantly. Peru's well-meaning land reform of the `60s and `70s further fractured the agrarian Pisco industry, and as cultural tastes shifted, Pisco was replaced by rum, whiskey and vodka as the drinks of choice in South America. Production flagged until the late 1990s, when (perhaps egged on by Chile's slick appropriation of the product) entrepre- neurs, politicians and national business interests began to reinvest in the spirit's industry and quality. Global interest in the patrimony of Peru's Pisco is now gaining trac- tion and trickling down to support a newly-growing Pisco industry. "Most of the companies involved with Pisco production are agrarian and small to middle-sized enterprises. Farmers are also medium and small landowners," says Meza-Cuadra, "The impact of Pisco exports has been very important . . . particularly in the region of Ica." The international mixology commu- nity actively seeks out quality, artisanal small-batch product of provenance, and they're paying attention. Pisco's inherent mixability is a major asset behind the bar, and acholados and puros made with Quebranta are lead- ing the market. Pisco's purity and grape base also lends itself beautifully to infusions. Lima's bars have long carried large varieties of house-infused Piscos, and bartenders in the U.S. and U.K. are starting to incorporate the Peruvian practice. Any Pisco or infused Pisco performs superbly in the Chilcano, one of Peru's seminal Pisco cocktails. In the same family as America's beloved Moscow Mule, the Chilcano is a highball of Pisco, ginger ale, lime juice and bitters. Its minimalism allows the notes of the base spirit to shine, with the ginger ele- ment a perfect complement to Pisco's floral and grape notes. Craft bartenders are also reinvigorating interest in other classics, like the Pisco Sour and the Pisco Punch. Pisco plays well with the once- esoteric ingredients like gommes, bitters and fresh juices that are now standard in today's craft bars. It also lends cocktails a beautiful complexity when substituted for other clear spirits like vodka and rum in classic recipes. With all of these attributes in one bottle, many bartenders are hailing Pisco as the next clear spirit to take the spotlight. All signs point to the rest of the imbibing world joining them. A GUIDE TO SPEAKING LOCAL PISCO Aguardiente Grape brandy made outside of Peru, meaning "firewater" Chicharrón Technically meaning "fried pork," at distilleries it's the Pisco coming straight out of the still Cachina Slang for the young wine produced by fermenting Bodega A property where Pisco is made "Between Pisco and Nazca" A term for being Pisco-drunk (These are the two endpoints of the Ica region)!