Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/471637
march 2015 / the tasting panel / 109 Another PRCC founding member, Daniel Daou of DAOU Vineyards & Winery, goes so far as to say that Paso Robles has advantages over both Bordeaux and Napa Valley. "This is not to say that we want to be like Bordeaux or Napa Valley," says Daou, "but our combination of natural conditions gives us anthocynins and phenolics [i.e., compounds contribut- ing to color, flavor and structure] that would be considered off the charts in Bordeaux or Napa." In fact, over the past 20 years Paso Robles has become the go-to spot for Bordeaux-grape-driven brands as ubiquitous as J. Lohr's Seven Oaks and as prestigious as JUSTIN's Isosceles, precisely because of what can be grown here: wines combining fruit-driven varietal profiles—consistently free of excess pyrazines (green vegetal notes)—and a structural integrity entailing rounder tannin, intrinsic (as opposed to acidulated) acidity and maturation at lower sugar levels, permitting more moderate alcohol levels. What's not to like? Viticulture in the Paso Robles AVA is defined by a Mediterranean climate and extreme diurnal swings (typically 40° to 50° during the growing season), and is predominantly hillside. Soils consist primarily of weathered granite, volcanic and ancient marine sedimentary rocks, plus a common thread of largely alkaline calcareous shales and sandstone with pH values hovering around 8.0. Because of the inverse relationship between high pH in soils and low pH in wines, this makes Paso Robles-grown wines among highest in natural acidity in the U.S. Remarks Daou, "We never add acid to stabilize pH, unlike most of California, which gives our wines more natural fruit expression." Most recently, in 2014, the Paso Robles AVA gained final TTB approval of 11 sub-appellations: Adelaida District, Creston District, El Pomar District, Paso Robles Estrella District, Paso Robles Geneseo District, Paso Robles Highlands District, Paso Robles Willow Creek District, San Juan Creek, San Miguel District, Santa Margarita Ranch and Templeton Gap District. The significance of these delineations may not mean much to consum- ers, but it now makes it easier for us to talk about the decisive impact of terroir on grapes and wines—the real and tangible things that make Paso Robles Paso Robles. Topping off barrels in the cellar at Halter Ranch Vineyard. At Pomar Junction Vineyard & Winery (left to right): Winemaker Jim Shumate, Owner Dana Merrill and Owner/GM Matt Merrill. A vineyard scene at DAOU Vineyards & Winery in the Adelaida District AVA.