Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/455266
96 / the tasting panel / january/february 2015 our green curry rub paired with a mushroom ragu that's incredible with cocoa and elk," Beckman says. "Korean food ingredients and flavors are finding their way into the everyday lexicon, and hummus has now outpaced salsa in trending on Google," says Steenrod of Garces Group, whose restaurants include Tinto in Palm Springs and Philadelphia and Distrito in Scottsdale, Philadelphia and Moorestown, NJ. Why? Chefs are invading people's homes more than ever, from TV cooking shows to cookbooks. "The result: The most knowledgeable and experimental guests we've ever had, who understand seasonal, heirloom, artisanal and want to experiment," Sagaria explains. Cool and Creative Cuisine Story-telling is a recurring theme. "Evangelizing a dish," Mills calls it. "When Husk opened in 2010, telling the story behind an ingredient or dish was central to our conversations, since many items we were using and presenting were unfamiliar," chimes in Latimer, whose company's restaurants, McCrady's, Husk and Minero, are owned by Chef Sean Brock, who loves heirloom vegetable and grain varieties. "But 2014 changed that dialogue. A conversation based around basic education has become a discussion rooted in knowledge, with nuance and intricacy becoming the main focus." In the heart of the French Quarter, SoBou's small and big plates of modern Louisiana cuisine are "fun, creative and meant to be shared by whole groups, not just two people," says Martin. Its communal table "makes having drinks and snacks feel like a party . . . it feels spontaneous, unlike sitting at a regular table." One large share plate: four BBQ-grilled Texas quail atop "apple pie"—cornbread dressing and apple cider–compressed fall vegetables. Sweet potato beignets with foie gras fondue and chicory coffee ganache, and yellowfin tuna cones with pineapple ceviche and basil avocado ice cream are two small plates. "Chicken, steak, fish, whole hog, goat—you name the protein, and chances are there is a restaurant somewhere serving it for two people," says Sagaria. "Large-format dishes like our whole grilled sea bass, elk rack and 20-ounce rib eye work beautifully with our 30-foot- long community table," Beckman agrees. Food as fun resonated. "The dining culture is taking a turn for the chill. From tasting menus to tray service, eating is more fun, casual and affordable—kicking back and having a great time," Latimer explains. "Finding a hole in the wall or dive spot with soul is the new task at hand for eaters in the know." Setting the Scene "Smooth jazz is out. Hip hop is in. In an effort to make dining more fun, restaurants are playing with the playlist, using the music to set the vibe," says Sagaria. Dirty Habit in San Francisco, a Kimpton restaurant that opened in 2014, epitomizes all these trends. A radical redesign of the previous formal, fine-dining restaurant Fifth Floor, it's hip from its décor— industrial-chic, exposed ducts, gears on the wall, metal grid ceil- ing—to its menu, with no separate sections for appetizers and entrees, a 30-page liquor list, a communal table (press the top: a secret drawer containing USB ports and an electrical plug opens) and an attention- grabbing name. "Two catalysts drove the changes: We wanted to trade a seven- or eight-course, hours-long dining experience for more casual dining, and San Francisco is more bar-centric," says Lin. "We wanted to create a 'wow factor'—so we totally gutted it for a grittier concept, while creating a lot more opportunity from a pure financial stand- point, converting a patio from a light well, and carving three meeting/ event rooms out of the former dining room." Moderate-priced menu items include a steamed bun with fried lamb belly and peanuts ($5), Highlighting unique preparations of vegetables was a big food trend in 2014 that we expect to carry over to 2015. WHAT'S HOT PHOTO: MARSHALL TROY