Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/455266
january/february 2015 / the tasting panel / 73 Oyster Bay at Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse, Chicago The old-school décor of Chicago-based Gibsons Bar and Steakhouse—red leather booths, walls clad in dark hardwood—attracts Windy City locals and celebrities looking to tuck into a mineral-rich, fat-laced steak paired with the perfect wine. For many of them, the red of choice has become Oyster Bay Pinot Noir. John R. Colletti, a Managing Partner at Gibsons Restaurant Group, learned how to complement steakhouse-quality meats with a fine wine list over his 22 years at the restaurant. It's a beloved temple to the carnivore, legendary as much for its enormous desserts, imposing Martinis and superlatively fresh lobster tails, as for its private brand of USDA-certified prime Angus beef. When it comes to the wine list, Colletti says Oyster Bay's Pinot Noir sells extremely well in spite of the obvious, if clichéd, pairing of a brawny Cabernet with a Porterhouse. The reason? "Oyster Bay is a great bottle; the fruit-forward taste complements steak, as well as fresh fish, and is a great change for our customers from Cabs and Merlots." Colletti notes the correlation between the improved quality of New Zealand wines and their growth in popularity over the last decade. Despite serving three American Pinots from California and Oregon by the glass, he says the NZ Pinot competes neck-and-neck because "the educated drinker knows value and qual- ity in the first taste of Oyster Bay."—L. M. John R. Colletti, Managing Partner at Gibsons Restaurant Group. PHOTO: JACOB HAND PHOTO: JOSH REYNOLDS D iligence, in the case of a New Zealand wine region, may be the mother of good luck. Marlborough, New Zealand has assiduously spent the last decade focusing the world's attention on its unique brand of Sauvignon Blanc; now, the successful wine region stands poised for recognition as the next great producer of Pinot Noir. "Growers around the country have been expanding Pinot plantings since the '90s," says Peter Edgar, Vice President and U.S. National Sales Manager for Delegat, which owns the Marlborough-based brand Oyster Bay. Central Otago and Martinborough developed cultish followings early on for their Pinot expressions, but small production coupled with high prices kept exports low, and the category a niche. Now, Marlborough leads the country in hectares under Pinot vines at 2,397 (5,900 acres), com- prising more than half of New Zealand's plantings. Now, Edgar says, "Pinot Noir is second only to Sauvignon Blanc in production volume. There has been 129 percent growth in export sales of New Zealand Pinot in the last five years." He cites regional name recognition fuels demand, and consistent quality. Helping catapult the category is Oyster Bay's Marlborough Pinot. The 2013 vintage, a bright and fragrant wine redolent of dark cherries, delivered on silky tannins, recently scored a 91 with THE TASTING PANEL, and was a Gold Medal winner at the San Francisco International Wine Competition. A fair number of New Zealand Pinots have received international acclaim, but few have hit Oyster Bay's trifecta of price accessibility, quality and distinctiveness. What makes Marlborough an ideal place for growing this notoriously fussy grape? For starters, the maritime climate, wide diurnal range and long growing season help grapes preserve natural acidity, while they develop signature red and black fruit flavors and a decidedly less savory under- tone than those from the Old World. This "cool-climate" profile serves consumers' changing tastes as they gradually shift towards elegant, fresh, food-friendly wines, and away from brash, ripe styles that compete with cuisine. In this respect, New Zealand has led the New World cool-climate charge, giving on-premise and off-premise wine buyers a chance to promote the category. Edgar believes Marlborough will make a large impact on the Pinot Noir market, especially given the premiumization occurring in the category; consumers are trading up, while simultaneously seeking the intersection of quality and value. "More than any other region" said Edgar, "New Zealand is be able to consistently deliver wines of this profile for between $15 and $25 in retail and $10 to $15 by the glass, on-premise." If New Zealand represents a rising swell into the Pinot category, then Oyster Bay is the first wave to crash; as compared to leading Burgundy producer, Louis Jadot, the brand trails a mere four cases of wine behind, and is on track to break into the lead.