Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/455266
44 / the tasting panel / january/february 2015 F&B W ith its stretch of top national golf courses—it regu- larly hosts televised tennis and golf tournaments— and plenty of sunshine beaming down on hotels, winter homes and condos, one distinct landmark stands among the mountains and cacti in the heart of Southern California's Coachella Valley: the Omni Rancho Las Palmas Resort. "We're the essence of the desert here," explains Robert Nyerick, Executive Chef for the property. The property is dressed in desert casual chic, from its patio dining, architec- ture and landscaping to its menu at the focal point venue: BluEmber. Omni has revived its food and beverage program with a new team: F&B Director Carlo De Leon, Executive Chef Robert Nyerick and Sous-Chef Brandon Testi. Chef Testi is the veteran, with two years at the chef helm; Exec Chef Nyerick joined a year ago, and F&B Director De Leon began about six months earlier. "We all have a history in the desert," attests Nyerick, noting that this eclectic trio has also each had experience in the front and back of the house. With mentoring from Nyerick, Testi, a young chef at age 28, has a penchant for reinventing classic dishes. "I like to put a twist on something," he smiles, handing me a plate of Brussels sprouts that have been roasted and carry a rich, earthy fragrance. "Preparation should not be overlooked," says Testi. "The secret is to not over-do dishes. Keep it simple." Chef Testi's "new school" beet salad replaces the old worn- out recipe with tri-colored baby beets (grown ten miles away in Thermal, CA), a citrus aioli and Upland cress (a watercress grown in drier ground for fine versus stemmy leaves and less peppery flavor). "Since the leaves lack the pepper component, I pull in a ginger–black pepper tuile that gets a citrus and grapefruit oil vinaigrette." This Technicolor salad is thor- oughly modernized. For the winter season, Testi prepares a sea bass without the dull, expected veggie and starch side dishes: He crisps the skin of the fish and combines quinoa, Beluga lentils and barley oats for a swimmingly health-conscious, new school presentation. "This is not just a retirement community anymore," insists De Leon, who has opened trendsetting properties in Southern California and Virginia. "I continue to question and chal- lenge our entire staff to look out there in the [food] world—L.A., San Francisco and Las Vegas, for example— and see what will work here in the desert to bring it out of its tired and traditional ways." The Omni Rancho Las Palmas Resort team: F&B Director Carlo De Leon, Executive Chef Robert Nyerick and Sous-Chef Brandon Testi. Chef Brandon Testi's updated beet salad. (right) Crispy-skin sea bass against a backdrop of poolside dining at BluEmber. Updating the Oasis A NEW F&B TEAM IS "MODERNIZING" SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA'S DESERT FOOD SCENE AT OMNI RANCHO LAS PALMAS RESORT by Meridith May / photos by Joe Stemmer dull, expected veggie and starch side dishes: He crisps the skin of the fish and combines quinoa, Beluga lentils and barley oats for a swimmingly health-conscious, new school presentation. anymore," insists De Leon, who has opened trendsetting properties in Southern California and Virginia. "I continue to question and chal lenge our entire staff to look out there in the [food] world—L.A., San Francisco and Las Vegas, for example— BluEmber.