The Tasting Panel magazine

October 2011

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Sorensen, co-owner of Woodinville Whiskey Co. "We like it because it shows off the grain flavors better than the aged stuff, especially the flavors developed during fermentation, and in our case, since we use great ingredi- ents and take care with fermentation, we really like those flavors," comments Christian Krogstad, distiller for House Spirits Distillery. Because the category of unaged whiskey is so loosely defined, it enables a considerable amount of creativity. Marko Karakasevic, Master Distiller from Charbay Winery & Distillery, uses double hopped, bottle-ready IPA beer to make Charbay Doubled & Twisted Light Whiskey. "Every whiskey on the planet is distilled from beer, so why not distill it from beer that I like to drink?" comments Marko. Sons of Liberty Spirits is also experimenting in this space with a stout beer for their upcoming unaged Stout Whiskey. While many of the unaged whiskeys can be enjoyed neat, chilled or over ice, it's been bartenders who have helped create enthusiasm around the spirit. "We've had mixologists use Glen Thunder in high-end cocktails in NYC, including Jim Meehan from PDT, who mixed it with Masumi Arabashiri Saki and Galliano L'Autentico to make a cocktail called the Brewer's Breakfast," says Brian A. McKenzie, President of Finger Lakes Distilling. "But I think the best use we've found is in a Bloody Mary with a high-end Bloody Mary mix and Celery Bitters from Fee Bros. The corn really shines through and comple- ments the tomato." The future of unaged whiskey is uncertain, with no one quite sure whether it'll break out into a major spirit category or simply become a niche product. "The biggest nemesis to white whiskey, I believe, has been marketing it to devout aged whiskey drinkers. White whiskey does not have the complexity or character that an aged product does. But there are many drinkers out there who don't enjoy the 'smack ya in the face' punch of flavor and complexity that whiskies bring but do enjoy some character in their spirit. This is where I believe white whiskey has legs," says Orlin Sorensen. "I think it's here to stay and will grow to be like blanco tequila. If tequila and rum can have their blanco, why can't and shouldn't whiskey?" asks David Perkins from High West Distillery. 82 / the tasting panel / october 201 1 NOTABLE UNAGED WHISKIES Heaven Hill Trybox Series Heaven Hill has released two offerings in their Trybox Series. The first of these is the raw spirit used to make Evan Williams Single Barrel Vintage Bourbon. With a corn heavy mash bill, the sweet corn notes clearly come through. There are also flavors that stand out, including an unmistakable peanut note, which are often lost in the shuffle after aging. At 125 proof, it's a little strong to be consumed straight and does very well with a little water or ice. The second offering is the Heaven Hill Trybox Series Rye New Make, the raw spirit that becomes Rittenhouse Rye Whiskey. The nose reflects the high rye content and is considerably spicier than its corn-heavy counterpart. There are notes here more like a spicy cornbread muffin than sweet corn. It's got a nice spice in the mid palate and just a little wet dog funk. As with the other New Make, it's bottled at 125 proof and benefits from a little water or ice. Maker's White Currently only available at the Maker's Mark distillery, Maker's White is the same raw spirit that is put into barrel and made into Maker's Mark (at the same proof). Less sweet than many other unaged whiskeys, the Maker's White has a wonderful cinnamon spice note which is more pronounced here than in the aged version of the spirit. Bill Samuels set out to make a whiskey that "doesn't blow your ears off," and now Rob Samuels is furthering the family tradition with this eminently drinkable unaged whiskey. Woodinville Whiskey Co. White Dog Whiskey Woodinville sells two versions of their unaged whiskey, an 80 proof white dog called Headlong, and a 110 proof barrel strength version meant to be aged in the Woodinville mini-barrel kit. The Headlong White Dog Whiskey has a sweet caramel and maple nose. The taste is sweet and smooth, with the caramel and maple notes from the nose accompanied by hints of cocoa and coffee. The mini-barrel kit is a whiskey lover's delight and lets you make your own aged whiskey from Woodinville's White Dog. Buffalo Trace White Dog Series Buffalo Trace now has three White Dog Releases. The first is Mash #1, used to make the aged Buffalo Trace Bourbon, a wonderfully sweet and corn-forward unaged whiskey with some nice spice and beer-like malt that really balances it out. The second is the Wheated Mash that is use to make WL Weller and Pappy Van Winkle. The Wheated Mash has a much softer and more subtle nose with clear wet wheat notes. The taste is dominated by wheat and cereal grains and is backed by an undercurrent of maple syrup. The third in this series is the Rye Mash, which is used to make Sazerac 6 and 18, Thomas Handy, and Van Winkle 13. The nose has some of the malty beer notes as the Mash #1 but not as strong. The flavor is much spicier than the other White Dogs, with an undercurrent of cereal grains. Benjamin Prichard's Lincoln County Lightning While most corn whiskey is made using yellow corn, Phil Prichard uses white. "As I unfurled our family history, I discovered that Benjamin made his whiskey in a pot still using white corn rather than yellow corn.

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