The Tasting Panel magazine

October 2011

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Rendezvous No. 4: A Maverick in the Mix This varietal may not be considered Rhône, but it was warmly welcomed to the fold. "A long dusty finish with understated tannins (passive) and strawberry brightness." —Derick Rossmiller "Jam, jam and more jam (passive) . . . until that black pepper and spice comes along (aggressive)." —Victor Pinkston THE REVEAL: Passive Aggressive 2009 Petite Sirah, Rogue Valley, Oregon ($18, 173 cases) is a rare varietal for southern Oregon. From family-owned and -operated Folin Cellars, this Earth Mother stumped us all. Southern Oregon's hot summer days and cool nights make the location ideal for producing exceptional wines from the state's warmer climate. Rendezvous No. 5: Yin & Yang The combination of fruit and earth, nerve and structure, tested our palates. "Dense, dark, blue-black plum with a beefy core. Sweet oak laced with bittersweet chocolate adds another side of the story." —Bruno Bonnet "Opaque and inky purple: blackberry and blueberry create a nice combination, with an earthy, big-bottomed undertone." —Jason Smith THE REVEAL: Vina Robles 2007 Syrée, Paso Robles ($36) is a Syrah/Petite Sirah cuvée (hence the name) and winemaker Nick DeLuca (formerly of Dierberg and Star Lane in Santa Ynez) calls the vintage one of the best of the decade. Low yields and concentration of fruit were just the start for the Syrah, grown in limestone soils on Paso's warmer southeast side, while the Petite Sirah (21%) was grown in clay and sandy soils, also rich in limestone. Aged in 100% new French oak 400-liter barrels and left on the lees for 16 months, the two wines were blended the following spring and put back into barrels the following year. Vina Robles winemaker Nick de Luca. Rendezvous No. 6: Enduring Vines Old vines and sensitive farming practices take this wine to its 20th vintage. "A chocolate, nutty nose; rhubarb-sweet with round, well-structured palate and a finish of rich, dark plums." —Victor Pinkston "Intense ruby hue with hints of purple. The fresh fruit notes shine, with little or no discernable oak. The palate leads to stewed prunes and the mouthfeel becomes more complex towards its lingering finish." —Jason Smith THE REVEAL: Cline 2010 Ancient Vines Mourvèdre, Contra Costa County ($17) draws from 120-year-old vines surrounded by eucalyptus trees in the singular deep-soiled Oakley terroir off San Francisco Bay. The low-yielding vines survived the onslaught of phylloxera because the silty, sandy soils in which they are planted are resistant to the deadly louse. The family-owned winery was started in 1982 by Fred Cline. october 201 1 / the tasting panel / 77

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