Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/44136
BLUE REVIEWS Master of Walla Walla Jean-François Pellet At Pepper Bridge And Amavi SWISS-BORN JEAN-FRANÇOIS PELLET is a third-generation wine- maker. After working in Switzerland (alongside his father, who has managed the same vineyard for 30 years), Germany and Spain, he got a four-year stint at iconic Heitz Cellars in Napa Valley. But in 1999, he couldn't resist the call to go to Washington's Walla Walla Valley, where he became founding winemaker at Pepper Bridge, a new winery based at legendary Walla Walla pioneer Norm McKibben's benchmark property, Pepper Bridge Vineyard. Two years later, Pellet became a partner with McKibben in sister winery Amavi Cellars. Both wineries draw fruit from some of Walla Walla's most coveted sites, including the celebrated Seven Hills, Les Collines and Goff—all sus- tainably grown. The vineyards provide Pellet with the raw materi- als to make wines that exhibit the best of his Old World technique and his New World aspirations: stylish reserve, ripe yet polished fruit, silky tannins and excellent depth and complexity. I recently sat down with Pellet to taste through the current line-up. 90 89 91 Amavi Cellars 2010 Semillon, Walla Walla Valley ($20) Brisk and juicy, aromatic and fresh with peach and smooth spice; bright and lively with good texture and richness. Amavi Cellars 2009 Syrah, Walla Walla Valley ($29) Dark and rich with ripe blackberry and excellent concentration; dense with excellent acid structure and smooth texture; long and balanced. Amavi Cellars 2009 Syrah, Les Collines Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley ($34) Smooth and lush with ripe blackberry, spice, herbs and gamey notes; juicy and tangy with minerals and a long finish; complex and charming; long and balanced. 92 Pepper Bridge Winery 2008, Pepper Bridge Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley ($55) Ripe and dense with lush blackberry, smoke and toasted oak; rich cassis and tangy acidity; supple, long and complex with great length and style. 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 55% Merlot, 5% Malbec, 5% Petit Verdot. balance and complex; subtle, supple and bursting with spice, excellent depth; long and charming. Named for the three partner families: Pellet, McKibben and Goff; 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 8% Malbec, 2% Petit Verdot. 92 90 Pepper Bridge Winery 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley ($55) Bright and smooth with lush minerality and dense plum; supple, long and complex with spice, elegance and style; long and balanced. 62 / the tasting panel / october 201 1 Pepper Bridge Winery 2008 Trine, Walla Walla Valley ($60) Smooth and lush with lovely structure, bright fruit, lovely VALUE AND BY-THE-GLASS RECOMMENDATIONS 88 88 Ste. Chapelle Winery NV Brut Sparkling, Snake River, Idaho ($8) Fresh and ripe with crisp, juicy peachy fruit; off-dry, clean and lively with nice tangy flavors. ASCENTIA WINE ESTATES Haras de Pirque 2010 Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Maipo Valley, Chile ($10) Smooth, juicy and bright with dry, spicy, peachy flavors; tangy, fresh and long. STE. MICHELLE WINE ESTATES 88 88 88 88 88 90 Dry Creek Vineyard 2010 Dry Chenin Blanc, Wilson Ranch, Clarksburg ($12) Smooth, fresh and stylish with apple fruit and good acid structure; one of the few California wineries that values this under appreciated variety. Waterbrook Winery 2010 Mélange Blanc, Columbia Valley ($13) Fresh, bright and tangy with some sweetness; juicy and peachy with lime and spice; silky and long. PRECEPT BRANDS Mandolin Vintners 2009 Syrah, Central Coast ($10) Smooth, lush and showing fleshy blackberry and spice; tangy, long and balanced with nice depth and style. Tormaresca 2009 Nèprica, Puglia, Italy ($12) Smooth, dense and juicy with ripe plum, blackberry and spice; lush, rich and balanced. ST. MICHELLE WINE ESTATES Spartico NV Tempranillo, Utiel Requena, Spain ($13) Juicy, smooth and tangy with pure plum and racy raspberry; fresh and lively, balanced and certified organic; quite charming. NATURAL MERCHANTS SELECTIONS Red Rock Winery 2009 Reserve Merlot, California ($14) Smooth, bright and plummy with racy acidity and tangy fruit; fresh, vibrant and delicious. GALLO