Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/44136
CELLAR FOCUS Revisiting Lambrusco S weet Lambrusco was the biggest-selling U.S. wine import for more than two decades begin- ning in the mid-1970s thanks to Riunite, the brand introduced in 1967 by the Mariani family of Banfi . This style continues to appeal to wine novices for its easy drinkability, but Lambrusco—produced in four zones in Emilia-Romagna and one in Lombardy—is being taken more seriously these days, as importers bring in deeper, drier and more complex versions not meant to be served over ice. Sommeliers are, rightly, offering these Lambruscos on their wine lists; they pair beautifully with the notoriously rich cuisine from the area around Bologna and Modena. Several local clones of the highly mutable Lambrusco grape—Grasparossa, Salamino, Sorbara and others—are specifi ed by DOC regulations for each zone and appear on labels. Bottles can also be labeled "amabile" (slightly sweet), "dolce" (sweet) or "secco" (dry). Like much Italian wine, it sounds complicated—but everything about Lambrusco becomes clear on the fi rst taste. Here are a few of my recent discoveries. Albinea Canali NV Ottocentenero, Lambrusco dell'Emilia ($14) Dark and lively with dry fl avors of blackberry, cherry and cas- sis; smooth, bright and offering lots of charm, crisp acidity and a long, juicy fi nish. 90 BANFI VINTNERS Caprari 2009 Lambrusco dell' Emilia Frizzante Dolce ($12) Sweet, juicy and clean with black raspberry and spice; tangy and fresh. 87 BELVINO Caprari 2008, Lambrusco dell' Emilia Foiéta Secco Frizzante ($19) Dark and dense with rich blackberry and spice; fresh, spar- kling and smooth with deep fruit fl avors and even a touch of tannin; long and balanced. 89 BELVINO Cleto Chiarli NV Premium Vecchia Modena Lambrusco di Sorbara ($15) Foamy, juicy, tangy; crisp and loaded with raspberry and lots of racy acidity; from Sorbara grapes. 90 DALLA TERRA october 201 1 / the tasting panel / 111 Ca' Montanari 2009 Operapura Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro ($25) Dark and luminous; ripe, juicy and showing blackberry, cherry and cassis fruit with hints of violets; lovely bubbles, good acidity and gobs of charm. Biodynamic. 90 A.I. SELECTIONS Tenuta Pederzana NV Gibe Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro ($18) Fresh and juicy with blackberry, spice and blueberry; tangy, clean and lively with plenty of sparkle and good depth. 90 VIAS IMPORTS Puianello NV Lambrusco Grasparossa Amabile Luceria, Colli di Scandiano e di Canossa ($15) Earthy and slightly sweet with ripe raspberry fruit and a long, smooth foamy fi nish. 87 VINTWOOD Puianello NV Lambrusco Grasparossa, Colli di Scandiano e di Canossa ($13) Clean, fresh and charming with dry, fresh black raspberry fruit and lush texture with fi ne bubbles; juicy, long and bal- anced. 88 VINTWOOD THE FRIZZANTE RED FROM NORTHERN ITALY IS BACK IN VOGUE by Anthony Dias Blue Cleto Chiarli NV Centenario Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro Amabile ($11) Fresh and tangy with ripe black cherry, raspberry and a touch of sweetness; juicy, lively and charming. 88 DALLA TERRA Ca' Montanari 2009 Opera 02 Lambrusco di Modena Secco ($20) Dark and lush with ripe berry and cassis fruit plus nice woodsy notes; rich, smooth and delicious. Biodynamic. 90 A.I. SELECTIONS Ca' Montanari 2009 Opera 02 Lambrusco di Modena Amabile ($20) Dark and smooth with sweet, ripe plum, violets and blackberry fruit; juicy, ripe and lus- cious. Biodynamic. 90 A.I. SELECTIONS