The Tasting Panel magazine

October 2011

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VODKA REPORT a result, whiskies and cognacs contain 100 times as many congeners than standard vodka, which is one of the reasons why many vodkas are light and neutral in style. The aim of vodka producers is either to remove all traces of impuri- ties in order to obtain the cleanest flavor possible, or to preserve flavors and characteristics which make their products unique. Filtration For some brands distillation and rectification is not sufficient. In order to reach complete neutrality, many brands are filtering their vodka. Charcoal is most common, and is considered to be particularly effective for removing oily contaminants, even though there are many other filters with similar results. France's Grey Goose is filtered through limestone, Finland's Finlandia prefers glacial rock and Poland's Ultimat uses a repeated copper filtration system, just The most common ingredients for vodka production are: WHEAT Produces smooth, sweet, fresh and bready vodka with vinous texture, often with a hint of anise on the finish. BARLEY Offers the finest quality of starch and the lowest level of fatty oils, which results in clean, crisp vodka, sometimes with a delicate sweetness in the background. RYE Provides soft, clean, slightly sweet and deli- cate aromas with an easily recognizable oiliness. POTATO Results in rather robust vodka with creamy texture. As preparation is labor-intensive and yield low, mainly high-starch varieties are used for vodka production. GRAPES Controversial and rather a new ingredient to vodka production, which, depend- ing on the grape variety, results in everything from a very neutral to a refreshing spirit with character of lemon, lime and bubble gum. MULTIPLE INGREDIENTS As consumers are becoming more demanding, vodka blenders have started combining multiple ingredients composing a complete experience in favor of individual characteristics. 100 / the tasting panel / october 201 1 to mention a few methods. In recent years, a multitude of new filtration methods has been presented, including marble, silver, gold, platinum and even diamond filters. Whether these methods make a difference or are just a plain marketing device is difficult to say. However, not everyone is completely in favor of filtering their vodka. Thomas Kuuttanen, Master Blender of Sweden's non-filtered Purity Vodka, says "The slow, 34-times distillation process in our proprietary vodka still results in a spirit so pure that no filtration is necessary. All character and flavors preserved after the distillation are there for a reason." Water An old Polish saying claims that "Water breathes life into vodka," and this is a well-known truth for all vodka connoisseurs. The final step in the production process is to reduce the alcohol to drinking strength. Accounting for as much as 62.5% of the product, the water can have great influence on the vodka. Different water sources deliver significant variations, even on vodka distilled from the same ingredients. However, like filtration, the marketing departments of the vodka companies often tend to play up the significance of the various waters they use. The truth is often that the water is allowed to keep little of its original qualities. In the worst case, the vodka produc- ers use distilled water, which can be described as a "hollow" water that brings no qualities to vodka. Most common are waters that have been filtered and de- ionized to different levels. Least common is natural mineral water, which tends to give the best result but is rejected by most producers because the minerals tend to merge and become visible in the bottle. The general rule is, the less the producer tampers with the water, the more interesting result at the end. The Comprehensive Vodka Tasting O ur independent, blind vodka tasting compared close to a hundred vodka brands available in the U.S. market. No distinction has been made regarding segment, price point, raw materials or origin. Sampling such a great number of spirits, in which taste and flavor span is somewhat limited, required methodology and accuracy. As many of the tasting notes tend to be rather similar, a flavor chart was developed using a coordinate system based on two axes: light to full-bodied, and neutral to flavorful. Vodkas were positioned on the chart according to their respective characteristics. The evaluation was based on flavor/neutrality as well as how light/full-bodied the vodkas were perceived. The test was done blind, with numbered glasses. They were grouped after aroma and then taste. In addition, all vodkas are categorized within ten gradu- ated taste scales (Grainy, Fruity, Bready, Oily, Floral, Mineral, Sweet, Citrusy and Peppery). The assessment is divided into a fragrance, flavor, aftertaste and overall experience. The basis is simple: The better the vodka, the greater the complexity and richness of hue. The spirits are being replaced by nature, and vodka should be round and warm, instead of burning. In order to implement a professional, comparative tasting, we chose to divide the tasting into two parts: Vodka served at room temperature, both with and without water in a nosing glass. Vodka stirred with ice and a touch of vermouth, served in Martini glasses.

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