Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/430172
december 2014 / the tasting panel / 7 "Appleton Estate has over 265 years of stories to share—stories that are part of the fabric of Jamaican culture," explains Andrew Floor, Senior Director of Dark Spirits for the rum's distributor, Campari America. "And the modern spirits lover is intrigued by the stories behind premium aged rum like Appleton Estate, because it allows them to connect to the human element behind the label." The Estate itself provides a compelling tale: an eco-conscious 11,000-acre property nestled in Jamaica's Nassau Valley (located in the southwest corner of the Island), whose emission-free boiler is powered by sugarcane fibers. And of course, the complex flavor profiles of rums like the Appleton Estate Reserve and the Appleton Estate 12 Year Old tell a riveting story in their own right. The reason for the rums' collec- tive exquisiteness falls to the hands of their author, Master Blender Joy Spence, who has been creating outstanding expressions of Appleton Estate rums for more than three decades. While Spence hails from a well-decorated science background—she possesses a Master of Science degree in analytical chemistry—she asserts that the scientific process only plays a slight role in her overall blending brilliance. "There is a little bit of science involved in blending premium aged rum like Appleton Estate, but that should never dictate how the rum turns out," she says. "There has to be a certain feel for the rum and how it's blended. That feel isn't something that can come from studying a formula. It's something that is created through instincts that are developed over time." The combination of the property and Spence's intuitive craftsmanship create what Floor dubs a "cane to cup" experience. Yet he is quick to point out that despite the exquisite nature of Appleton Estate rums, they do not exclusively run on the fuel of gravitas, as doing so would be contradictory to the inherent nature of rum as a whole. "Good rum, even premium aged rum like Appleton Estate, will always be a little fun," he states. "The reason for that is because rum has always been a drink that's symbolic of good times with good friends. It is important that we always keep this in mind, even as we use Appleton Estate to broaden people's perceptions about rum." And Floor points to another dark spirit as a means to conduct that broadening act. "The bridge that allows existing whiskey drinkers to cross over into rum is not that wide," he states. "Whenever I introduce that crowd to a glass of Appleton Estate 12 Year on the rocks, they are consistently blown away." We're also guessing that for the lucky recipients of such a glass it adds a little joy to their day. Rum by Any Means Necessary As Lead Bartender of Dirty Habit in San Francisco, Brian Means wants to make people happy. As Vice President of the SF chapter of the United States Bartending Guild, he wants to make sure his customers are educated. When he makes an old-school rum drink like a Daiquiri, he oftentimes gets the chance to do both. "There are still people that just expect that any classic rum drinks to be frozen, like the old days," he says. "When it doesn't come out looking like they expect, they become intrigued and start asking questions." The conversations that ensue from this drinkable surprise can lead Means to extol the virtues—and versatility—of premium aged rums like Appleton Estate, either on their own or as a somewhat surprising mixer. "When a rum has a complex flavor profile like Appleton Estate Reserve has, with its molasses and orange peel, it can be a perfect fit for a classic whiskey- based drink like an Old Fashioned or a Sazerac." Johnny 5 ◗ 1 oz. Appleton Estate Reserve ◗ 1 oz. Lustau Puerto Fino Sherry ◗ ½ oz. Cynar ◗ ½ oz. Velvet Falernum ◗ Combine all ingredients in a mixing glass and add ice. Stir for about 15 seconds. Strain into a small coupe. Garnish with an orange twist. Brian Means, Lead Bartender at San Francisco's Dirty Habit.